By Hook or By Crook
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By Hook or By Crook is an awesome, technical, and thought-provoking three-pitch climb up Harlequin Dome -- a candidate for one of the best 5.11's in Tuolumne.
P1: Begin at a shallow, right-leaning, right-facing dihedral at the center of the wall, near a large pine. Recent rockfall has made this pitch more difficult and more dangerous -- a stick clip for the first bolt is highly recommended. Ascend this corner via smears and powerful liebacks until a stance at the original anchor below a roof. Step right and hand-traverse on pockets before mantling up to a ledge at a bolted anchor. 5.11b.
P2: Climb up and left off the belay, clipping a few bolts, then traverse left to an arete-like feature formed by a shallow right-facing corner. Climb this after clipping an oddly-placed bolt (consider backcleaning or a long runner) up to a poor stance under a roof. Hand-traverse back right a few feet and pull through the roof on extremely powerful liebacks. Good, small gear here. Continue up to another bolted belay. 5.11b, crux. It is possible to descend from here with two raps on a single 60m rope, but the third pitch should not be missed. Bring a second rope in this case or be prepared to walk off.
P3: Climb a long, tricky, right-facing corner to the top. 5.10c.
Standard rack through #2 Camalot. Extra small cams and small wires useful. Stick clip.
|Comments on By Hook or By Crook
Mar 6, 2007
Indeed, one of the best 5.11's...
...didn't think the start was too bad, seemed to protect very well with .75 cams. Maybe rockfall made the clip more powerful (:?) Definitely a "get it on jones" sequence; do not stall.
Bring your roof/lb game for the second pitch. Small rack but mostly draws and slings is the name of the game.
Don't stop at the original anchor (see JJ's comments). It's wild but safe to go to the next stance which is much better for the second pitch.
|By peachy spohn|
Aug 31, 2008
The beginning can be protected safely, as 426 says. I used a #2 metolious. Also, you can link pitches 1 & 2 with a 70m rope for a great long pitch. Make sure to use long runners. From the second pitch anchors you can lower to the first anchors.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Sep 8, 2008
You can easily rap to the ground from the top pitch 2 with a single 70m rope. As of 9/7/08, there's a fixed #5 stopper at the roof, so go do the route! It's like a sport climb with that thing there.
|By Brandon R.|
From: San Mateo, CA
Aug 24, 2009
no fixed stopper there now, but there's a bolt nearby and the gear is easy enough to place. Also, we got down from the second pitch anchor in one rappel with a single sixty meter rope... barely. The third pitch looks good... wish I would have gone to the top.
Sep 3, 2009
I would have loved to find a fixed stopper right there. The pro at the crux, while good, was very hard to place due to the pumpmeter redlining.
The 3rd pitch is great but the 2nd is by far the gem.