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Castle Rock
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By Gully 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Royal Robbins & Pat Ament, 1964
Page Views: 3,157
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 11, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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I admit it..I only added this route so I could pos...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the impressive offwidths just to the right of Coffin Crack that splits the left side of the aid roof. Boulder up to a quarter inch bolt and make some insecure moves to get situated under the roof. Dive into the gaping offwidth above and squeeze through two slots, up the squeeze chimney to where you can easily traverse left to the top of Coffin Crack to belay (there was a slung pinch on 7/03 to rap off of that can be backed up with small tcus to belay). Some gear can be found in the back of the crack as well as in a flake on the right side of the crack about halfway up. -JG

Protection 

Single set of cams from purple Metolius - #3 Camalot, nuts and a few draws. Pants.


Photos of By Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Joshua Merriam leading The By Gully.
Joshua Merriam leading The By Gully.
Climbing through the crux of the By Gully.  One of my favorite routes ever.
Climbing through the crux of the By Gully. One of...
By Gully and Coffin Crack.
BETA PHOTO: By Gully and Coffin Crack.
Gear to a #3 cam?  Check out the green thingy by my head.  A #4 and #5 got used too.  <br /> <br />First Ascent:  1964 Royal Robbins and Pat Ament.    <br /> <br />Photo by Jeroen.
BETA PHOTO: Gear to a #3 cam? Check out the green thingy by m...
Jimmy sending the warm-up.
Jimmy sending the warm-up.

Comments on By Gully Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 26, 2013
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Apr 8, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A very worthwhile but, unfortunately, overlooked route. Anyone who thinks they are solid on 5.9 should go and give this route a try.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 9, 2004

Good technique goes a long way on this one, so lack of technique will earn you a thrashing. One reality about seconding this is that if you slide out of the slot you can't get back in and have to be lowered to the ground. This climb belongs in Yosemite, or is at least good training for nasty Yosemite wide cracks.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 9, 2004

Way impressive that Joe (in the photo) is leading this thing without knee pads! Full body armor recommended. Good warm up for Coffin Crack!
By Robert Stetler
Jul 6, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I wonder why it's so rarely climbed?

Fun route, I plan to redpoint it once I have healed.
By another estes drunk
Jul 30, 2005

The first time I tried this was left side in and I got 'thrashed'. The second time up a fist jam after the bolt allowed me to stuff my right shoulder in and after a bit of sissy kicking the rest of the route was dispatched with a minimal donation of epidermal tissue. Two stars for sure.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2006
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Those "5.9+" moves to get into the darn thing sure felt hard to me. I thought it was harder than Coffin Crack, to the left, which gets 10b. I did do this climb left-side in. Above comment suggests that's wrong, but it seemed best to me- maybe it wasn't right?
Also, I placed my #4 Camalot low (left of the bolt) and ended up runout above.
By Adri.n Robert
From: boulder, co
Oct 8, 2006

I thought this thing was way harder than Coffin Crack. We actually warmed up on the other one, and although I probably looked as equally pathetic on both routes, this one gave me relatively less grief. The moves from the face into the OW were the business to me. Next step, red point!
By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 29, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A single set from #1 to #6 C4, with possibly two #4s, will protect this route nicely.
Took me several attempts to get a redpoint on this one, but I learned a lot about offwidth climbing in the process.
Yeah, it's a bit harder than a 5.10 OW, that's why it's rated 5.9+!
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Right side in, I found plenty of good holds on the sidewall to help, and some solid handjams. There's still plenty of chicken winging.

Josh L. replaced the bolt last night during our Tuesday night offwidth assault meeting.
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Oct 17, 2008

I once took a huge fall onto that quarter inch bolt. I somehow just got spat out of the thing!
By Rich Farnham
Aug 26, 2009

Traversing left to the anchor on Coffin Crack avoids a final bulge that is worth climbing. It is a few more OW moves over this bulge (a #5 C4 protected it well), and was a good finish to the route. A TR anchor can be built in the crack with gear in the 1"-3" range. It does add a bit of hassle when you are ready to clean the anchor, but the Coffin Crack anchor is only about 6' away. You can swing over to the CC anchor, rethread your rope through that, and then "lead" back out to get the gear anchor from By Gully.

As others have said, this route took me a few tries to lead, but taught me a lot about OW along the way. Highly recommended.

Regarding Left or Right side in--I've tried both and found Left side in to be a little easier, but the difference is minor.

A bolt has been added to the sling anchor at the top of Coffin Crack, so it's a much better rap station now.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Sep 10, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

First Ascent: Royal Robbins and PAT AMENT, 1964.

I remember a time when this really felt 5.9+. We were all better at squeeze chimneys before cams because the arm bar was often the best pro on the rack.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Apr 11, 2010

This thing is brutal! Tried to lead it yesterday and was thouroughly humbled. I lobbed out onto the bolt at first (which I used a 48" sling on, oops!), pinching my junk between my harness and my leg. I was at the point where you get the first good jamb, but I couldn't get it set well enough to get pro in, pretty good distance. I was in great pain at that point so I came down. I went back up and got to the same point, threw in a crap #1 sloppily and hung, then placed a green/yellow hybrid and replaced the #1 with a truck #2. I then proceeded to lob out about 3 more times as I worked above the cam.

I came down again as I was in great pain, my friend todd went up next. He lobbed out at least 3 times trying to get up past the roof only to admit defeat (he's been onsighting 11+ sport lately and working 12s on TR, generaly climbing 10-11 trad). We had another member to our team, so he went up to give it a try, suffering the same fate, lobbing out probly 3 or 4 times. I gave it another go lobbing out 2 more times, finally giving up and cleaning the gear.

For those of you like us who have to bail, I recommend setting a knot chock flicker knot in the juggy flake below the bolt, then you can un-clip the bolt and lower to the ground off the knot. I cliped some cord and extra runners into the loop above the knot to assist in retrieving it.
By slim
Administrator
Apr 12, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Jason, is the bolt still a really, old, crappy one? Maybe a button head or something? If so, yikes!
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Apr 12, 2010

Slim, the button head was replaced with a modern bolt when they did the Tuesday night OW, as I think was stated above.

Thanks goodness for that, I'd be pretty F'ed right now if it wasn't I would think.
By Rich Farnham
Oct 26, 2013

Overheard on this route today (and no, it wasn't me):

Leader (just through the crux, hangover kicking in): "This was a REALLY bad idea."

Belayer/girlfriend: "If you puke on me, I'm dumping you!"

...ten feet higher, he puked...luckily missing his belayer.

Classic!