This is the impressive offwidths just to the right of Coffin Crack that splits the left side of the aid roof. Boulder up to a quarter inch bolt and make some insecure moves to get situated under the roof. Dive into the gaping offwidth above and squeeze through two slots, up the squeeze chimney to where you can easily traverse left to the top of Coffin Crack to belay (there was a slung pinch on 7/03 to rap off of that can be backed up with small tcus to belay). Some gear can be found in the back of the crack as well as in a flake on the right side of the crack about halfway up. -JG
Single set of cams from purple Metolius - #3 Camalot, nuts and a few draws. Pants.
Good technique goes a long way on this one, so lack of technique will earn you a thrashing. One reality about seconding this is that if you slide out of the slot you can't get back in and have to be lowered to the ground. This climb belongs in Yosemite, or is at least good training for nasty Yosemite wide cracks.
The first time I tried this was left side in and I got 'thrashed'. The second time up a fist jam after the bolt allowed me to stuff my right shoulder in and after a bit of sissy kicking the rest of the route was dispatched with a minimal donation of epidermal tissue. Two stars for sure.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jun 5, 2006 rating: 5.106b20VII-E2 5b
Those "5.9+" moves to get into the darn thing sure felt hard to me. I thought it was harder than Coffin Crack, to the left, which gets 10b. I did do this climb left-side in. Above comment suggests that's wrong, but it seemed best to me- maybe it wasn't right? Also, I placed my #4 Camalot low (left of the bolt) and ended up runout above.
I thought this thing was way harder than Coffin Crack. We actually warmed up on the other one, and although I probably looked as equally pathetic on both routes, this one gave me relatively less grief. The moves from the face into the OW were the business to me. Next step, red point!
By James Beissel From: Boulder, CO Jul 29, 2007 rating: 5.9+5c17VIE1 5a
A single set from #1 to #6 C4, with possibly two #4s, will protect this route nicely. Took me several attempts to get a redpoint on this one, but I learned a lot about offwidth climbing in the process. Yeah, it's a bit harder than a 5.10 OW, that's why it's rated 5.9+!
By Joshua Merriam From: Boulder, CO Oct 15, 2008 rating: 5.10a/b6a+19VI+E2 5b
Right side in, I found plenty of good holds on the sidewall to help, and some solid handjams. There's still plenty of chicken winging.
Josh L. replaced the bolt last night during our Tuesday night offwidth assault meeting.
By Allen Hill From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine Oct 17, 2008
I once took a huge fall onto that quarter inch bolt. I somehow just got spat out of the thing!
Traversing left to the anchor on Coffin Crack avoids a final bulge that is worth climbing. It is a few more OW moves over this bulge (a #5 C4 protected it well), and was a good finish to the route. A TR anchor can be built in the crack with gear in the 1"-3" range. It does add a bit of hassle when you are ready to clean the anchor, but the Coffin Crack anchor is only about 6' away. You can swing over to the CC anchor, rethread your rope through that, and then "lead" back out to get the gear anchor from By Gully.
As others have said, this route took me a few tries to lead, but taught me a lot about OW along the way. Highly recommended.
Regarding Left or Right side in--I've tried both and found Left side in to be a little easier, but the difference is minor.
A bolt has been added to the sling anchor at the top of Coffin Crack, so it's a much better rap station now.
By Ken Trout From: Golden, CO Sep 10, 2009 rating: 5.9+5c17VIE1 5a
First Ascent: Royal Robbins and PAT AMENT, 1964.
I remember a time when this really felt 5.9+. We were all better at squeeze chimneys before cams because the arm bar was often the best pro on the rack.
This thing is brutal! Tried to lead it yesterday and was thouroughly humbled. I lobbed out onto the bolt at first (which I used a 48" sling on, oops!), pinching my junk between my harness and my leg. I was at the point where you get the first good jamb, but I couldn't get it set well enough to get pro in, pretty good distance. I was in great pain at that point so I came down. I went back up and got to the same point, threw in a crap #1 sloppily and hung, then placed a green/yellow hybrid and replaced the #1 with a truck #2. I then proceeded to lob out about 3 more times as I worked above the cam.
I came down again as I was in great pain, my friend todd went up next. He lobbed out at least 3 times trying to get up past the roof only to admit defeat (he's been onsighting 11+ sport lately and working 12s on TR, generaly climbing 10-11 trad). We had another member to our team, so he went up to give it a try, suffering the same fate, lobbing out probly 3 or 4 times. I gave it another go lobbing out 2 more times, finally giving up and cleaning the gear.
For those of you like us who have to bail, I recommend setting a knot chock flicker knot in the juggy flake below the bolt, then you can un-clip the bolt and lower to the ground off the knot. I cliped some cord and extra runners into the loop above the knot to assist in retrieving it.
By slim Administrator Apr 12, 2010 rating: 5.9+5c17VIE1 5a
Jason, is the bolt still a really, old, crappy one? Maybe a button head or something? If so, yikes!