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Bwana Dik 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dick Cilley, David Rosenfeld
Page Views: 392
Submitted By: Drewsky on Aug 23, 2010
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Description 

This short but fun climb has two cruxes: one passing a bolt low on the route and another reaching and clipping the anchor at the top. Some think that clipping the chains is the hardest 'move' on the route. This route includes knobs, face and crack climbing in its 40 feet and is very worthwhile. The gear for the top section, although a bit tricky to see, is quite good. The 'sort of serious' rating is vis-a-vis the fact that the beginning 10-15 feet is unprotected, has some questionable rock and the bolt is hard to clip. The climbing in this section is easier than the rest of the route, however.


Location 

Right of Japanese Gardens, this route shares the same start as Bat Skins, but instead of traversing right continues straight up past a bolt and gear to an anchor with chains.


Protection 

One bolt and gear to one or two inches. While the top crux used to be hard to protect, modern cams make it quit safe although placing them is still a challenge. Don't bother with the old circlehead nearby (except for nostalgic purposes): a much more trustworthy Alien, TCU, or C3 (depending on brand preference) is available nearby.



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