With the longest approach of any area in the park, climbing at Buzzard’s Roost is as remote as anywhere in Enchanted Rock State Park. When approaching the park on FM 965 Buzzard’s Roost is the first formation you pass. If you look close, you may be able to see climbers on the East Face. Most of the climbing consists of face and crack climbs. There are a handful of bolts here and there, as well as a couple of bolted sport routes, but the majority are trad lines. Climbing is found in three areas: the Southwest Wall, Southeast Wall, and the East Face. The climbing on the Southwest Wall is scattered amongst the boulders on the dome, while the Southeast Wall and the East Face both offer a good concentration of climbs. Differentiating the various routes can be difficult. Must do climbs on Buzzard’s Roost are Eat (5.10a) and Fear of Flying (5.10). A good place to climb on busy days when the other areas are mobbed.
To reach Buzzard’s Roost, follow the Loop Trail along the right (east side) of Sandy Creek. During the dry season, you can also hike up the creek bed. Follow the Loop Trail past the group pavilion and Freshman Mountain to a point just south of Buzzard’s Roost. The loop trail will fork left while the trail to the primitive camping area will continue straight. To reach the Southwest Face, follow the Loop Trail until you’re between Freshman and Buzzard’s. Pick your way to the base of the slabs, and then head up to the blocky boulders that make up the face. To reach the Southeast Wall and East Face, you can scramble along the slabs, pass under the lower boulders, and hike back up to the face. Alternatively, from the Loop Trail you can continue up Sandy Creek until you’re below your choice of areas, and then pick your way through the brush to the wall (some bush whacking required). If you’re coming from the Backside, continue following the Backside Trail north of Freshman Mountain to the intersection with the Loop Trail and turn left.
19 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buzzard's Roost:
Little Hans (aka. Conspiracy a Go-Go) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport, 40' East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
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