|The Buzzard Wall
Starts far left of Buzzard Wall. Climb up slab trending left to first bolt way off the deck. Climbing is straight forward but a little run out between bolts. There is a #2 camalot placement about half way up but not really needed. Going left alond the arete near top avoids playing in the dirt. Good stance under slight overhang near 2 bolt anchor or climb over top.
First route on the left face of Buzzard Wall just left of Buzzard Breath.
From: NE, GA
Apr 17, 2010
Buzzard Bait is actually a poorly protected trad route. It starts at the base of the gully that splilts the Buzzard and Slab walls. Step right onto the wall and climb the face up the right side of the blunt arete. Gear can be found near the start of the steep upper section.
There's a newer bolted route, rated 5.9+, that starts up and left of Buzzard Bait and they link up near the top. The newer bolted route starts on the left side of the blunt arete that forms the left end of the buzzard wall.
More than one party has linked Buzzard Bait and the new bolted route, which I wouldn't really recommend, but I wouldn't really recommend Buzzard Bait anyway :). I think the two routes join up around the 2nd or 3rd bolt of the new route.
|By Brian Hudson|
From: Lenoir, NC
Feb 9, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
A toprope can be set up for this route by scrambling down a chossy, steep trail off the left of the main graffiti-covered overlook. The anchors that appear obvious for this route will tend to pull a climber toward (or over) the arete in a fall. The ground starts high on the left and slopes down to the right. Two moves into the route and you're already looking at a 15' fall. The first decent place for pro I found was about 40' off the deck.