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Pogue's Cave Area
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Tale of Jemima Puddleduck, The 
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Unknown 

Buzz Lightyear 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type: Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Grijalva
Page Views: 325
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Mar 21, 2007
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Description 

Just to the left of The Tale of Jemima Puddleduck there is a bolt on a steep and improbable looking piece of rock. The holds are difficult to too see but the route goes just fine, though difficult at the start. After clipping a bolt low clip the bolt on the roof. The next move is the crux, there is an OK 2-3 finger pocket with a long reach to a ginormous jug. Once you hit the jug you can clip the third bolt.

Not quite done yet! Continue through steep juggy, and somewhat dirty climbing to the chains. Be prepared to nock some sand and a few pebbles onto your belayer, it appears that this route is not done much (was worried a hold might come off! But fortunately it did not happen!).


Location 

Left of The Tale of Jemima Puddleduck.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor



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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 22, 2008

This is probably the most "one move wonder" route at the tower. Stick the dyno passing the second bolt and things are pretty much over. For me this dyno was tough for the grade, it is kinda blind, and I ended up cutting my feet to reach the jug.

By magoo
From: Duke City
Aug 16, 2011

FA was by Chris Grijalva

-M