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Buzz Buzz 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: not sure
Page Views: 1,519
Submitted By: tom silvestrini on Mar 13, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Ron following up Buzz Buzz; great route to take ne...

Description 

It starts about 20 feet left of the black Romper Room face, in an large, obvious low angle corner with a big flat belay area. Start to the left of the 10' high triangular pillar, then layback up the rounded crack in the right facing corner.

Protection 

Small to medium pro. Newer two bolt anchor with slings and rings, visible from the start.


Photos of Buzz Buzz Slideshow Add Photo
Looking back to the start of Buzz Buzz.
Looking back to the start of Buzz Buzz.
BETA PHOTO
Brian leading up Buzz Buzz and enjoying a nice COL...
Brian leading up Buzz Buzz and enjoying a nice COL...
Dave leading.  Scrambled up the boulder to mock a ...
Dave leading. Scrambled up the boulder to mock a ...

Comments on Buzz Buzz Add Comment
Show which comments
By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 17, 2006
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Surprisingly really good super mellow route! Great for a warm up to some of the other routes in the area on Lotta Balls wall or Alcohol Wall! Takes pretty good gear too!
By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Route is hard for 5.4. The crux is a wide section near the top where the face holds diminish. Possibly traffic has worn some down?

A #4 Friend is useful if you happen to have one.
By Cultivating Mass
Apr 24, 2012

Saw an epic on this one this weekend. Not a good lead for inexperienced climbers.
By Mark Wright
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 2, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is best avoided if you're looking for an easy route to warm up on in this area. I'm an experienced trad leader, and fell this weekend (5/1/12) because of a foot popping off the very sandy right face of the dihedral along the upper crack. The rock on this route has very little patina or varnish on it, so it is very sandy and soft. The small face holds in the face along the wide crack above the last ledge are very worn, and the rock quality is such that the shoe rubber does not stick well when smearing. So I climbed it like an off width crack, not trusting my feet on the face. We climbed several other routes in the Romper Room, rated 5.5-5.7 (they were quite good!), and this route was harder than any of those. In my opinion, it's definitely not a 5.4, and definitely not a route for a beginner lead climber.
By Franzalopolis
From: Mass.
Mar 5, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Apparently this route sees a lot of falls. The climb seems pretty straight forward. I would recommend just going up jamming your feet straight in, rather than focussing to hard on. Face c,imbuing. Couple laybacks where the crack gets larger.
By bwcasnap
From: Minneapolis, MN
Apr 17, 2013

I have to agree with other climbers regarding this one. I went to the romper room area to get a bunch of easy leads in (new to lead) and ended up TRing instead and leading doobie dance. It is NOT 5.4. Awkward moves abound. My partner climbed it 4 times just to get used to it. I've climbed easier 5.8. I suppose if you want to get prepared for a long alpine climb it's a good teacher for things you might not expect. 5.5 or 5.6 and not a beginning leader climb.
By Karla Lipp
From: Boulder
Nov 27, 2013

11/28/2013 - Not a jug hall. Definitely not 5.4 but not harder than 5.6 if you have foot jamming skills. I used a #3 Camelot down low and a $4 up high for good protection.
By tom9382
Jan 9, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

This is definitely a lot harder than a 5.4. Went there expecting an easy climb for someone just getting into trad. Should have read MP and not just rely on the book. The approach is about 1 - 1.5 miles in, but it's a nice hike. You want to make sure you approach the wall from the right side, because you can't do it from the left. This isn't easy to see from further away, but you essentially want to hike straight into the valley, pass the location where the climb starts, and then hike up and traverse left to get to it.

I found the bottom part and the top (right before the anchors) the most challenging. Some moves in the middle were maybe 5.4, but as a full climb i think it's at least a 5.7.

What I didn't like about it is there weren't great places to put gear. So I don't recommend this route for a beginner trad leader.