Mountain Project Logo

Buying Used Climbing Protection

Original Post
Brian James · · Appleton, WI · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 100

So I really want to build up my climbing rack, but I just cannot afford new gear especially cams which are so expensive. I check out the sales on ebay and MP and sometimes I think about buying used gear, but before I put in a bid I start thinking do I really want to trust used cams?

Should I pull the trigger and buy discounted used gear? Or be forever stuck top-roping?

Rob Dillon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 760

If you have to ask,

stick to toproping.

Mark Wyss · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 255

Plenty of good cams can be found on MP. I am always careful as to what I purchase on here. If it doesn't pass the eye test I wouldn't bother with it.

Most of the time, you can find cams at online retailers for ~45. Most cams here on MP go for 35-40 depending on condition. However most of the time you have to pay for shipping which will put you at 45 anyway.

If you can wait for a sale, buy new to start yourself off. Then once you start to double up sizes, you can fill in the gaps with deals on MP when they come along.

Good Resource: mountainproject.com/v/any-d…
Edit: use google shopping too.

jim.dangle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 5,882

As far as used pro goes, I've never had a problem but know what you are buying. Make sure you have a reasonable idea about old they are (what they make is, etc.) and that the the cams and slings are in decent condition. Although I've never heard of a sling breaking, if you are concerned you can have them replaced by either the manufacturer or a place like Mountain Tools or Ragged Mountain (though this will add to the cost of the used cam). Personally I have gotten the best deals off craigslist and find ebay always way overpriced. MP is usually somewhere in between but there is generally a steady stream of stuff for sale.

In general, I would be reluctant to pay more than 40 bucks for a used small to mid size cam in good condition and I would try to get a biner or a shipping thrown in with that. You can easily get 20% off new things on the internet and often 30-40% during good sales. Most places ship free. Bear that in mind when buying used gear as the prices often get out of hand.

One another tip is that for the majority of cragging you really don't need double sets of a cams. A single set of nuts and single set of cams up to BD#3 is plenty (I think you could probably lose the .3 and 3 and be pretty good too). Remember that people were crushing 5.12 with all passive pro. Climbing with less gear will only make you awesomer in the long run.

Jim

D Stevenson · · Escalange, UT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 25

YER GONNA DIE!!

Naw, not likely, if you're smart. Think of how many used cams get sold on MP, and now think about how many of those people are dead or seriously hurt from whipping on a 6 year old Camalot...

Also, keep an eye on alssports.com I got all my new C4s there from them. They usually have some stuff on sale. If my memory serves me right I got my C4 4 brand new for $48 (less than my .5 cost me), and most used ones end up for about $40. $8 may be worth the peace of mind...

They almost always rotate Metoilus in and out of sale, too, so if you're patient and get a couple cams a month you could end up with a great deal.

H BL · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 95

It's like asking if you should use a used condom. It might work, it might not. You never know how someone's gear has been used and abused.

I learned how to lead using someone elses gear (the guy that taught me and his gear was freaking old. That was in 1990) I didn't know any better then. I then scrounged after that to build my own rack after about 3 or 4 years. I got kinda lucky as I fell into "teaching" indoors at a rock gym on long island and got pro deals on some of my gear plus we didn't get paid we built up comp time and used that to pay for gear.

If you buy used gear-- "buyer beware" You may never know though you might come across some good stuff.

Eric Hamer · · Tucson · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 50

Buy new.

Try going out climbing with some old school traddie with 20+ year old gear. It will make you appreciate new gear so much more.

If expense is a problem then I would say to budget to buy one stopper a week and one cam a month. It will take a while but will be worth it in the long run.

Peter Stokes · · Them Thar Hills · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 150

Pretty much everyone who climbs does so with used gear, even if it was new when they got it. If you have a magnifying glass and understand simple machinery and stress cracks you can score some decent used gear. There are people who disagree and feel nothing you don't know the entire history of can possibly be "safe", but we're in a sport that isn't "safe" to begin with- and so the debate goes... sort of like those PAS threads. Everyone draws their own line somewhere- I stick to new stuff if it's rope, harnesses, slings, etc. (basically any kind of fabric), but my used metal equipment has served me well over the years.

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110

Nuts are probably the safest thing to buy used. As long as they look good they probably are. And yeah most of used stuff on here is pretty good. If you are really worried then get it reslung and call it good.

Ryan Hill · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 30

I think I've bought 6 new cams out of the close to 30 that I have. Most of my sport gear is new, but even it is filled out with a variety of old, but good draws. Taken plenty of falls on gear, new and used, never had a concern about it.

My experience is that it is incredibly hard to break well designed climbing gear. Yes, you can damage it in a normal situation, but it is rare and that type of damage is visible(I retired a nut last week as the cable was kinked beyond fixing, if I was interested though I could reswag it and throw it back on the rack). Add to that the fact that I have yet to meet a climber who is willing to sell questionable gear and I have a good amount of faith in used climbing gear.

Be smart with your purchases and you can save a lot of money getting into the sport without unnecessary risk.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

It's not hard to buy decent used gear. If it looks beat then it probably is. There's a lot of folks that over think this stuff and it is largely their loss.

I bought a used Gri-Gri and when one of my partners found out it was used said he refused to use it. I laughed and asked if he'd looked at the junk on his rack lately.

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 674
brianjames wrote:I start thinking do I really want to trust used cams?
All you naysayers, would you use a bootied cam?

I'd take a good look at it and if it passed inspection, I'd use it. Might have it re-slung. Same with used gear bought on ebay, Craig's list or anywhere else.
Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

Would you buy a used condom?

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

I've bought used gear that I totally trust as well as sold used gear that I had complete faith in. Just watch what you buy and who you buy it from.

The only thing I would shy away from is some of those ebay resellers that don't know anything about climbing. They wouldn't know a bad cam from a hole in the ground.

clay meier · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 350

buy used gear and place a lot of it.

portercassidy · · UT/CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 66

My first rack was scored out of a pawn shop in Logan, UT around 2002. Something like 11 metolius cams, a rigid friend, a hand full of stoppers, a pair of Trango ice tools, and a couple of VHS tapes for $150.

Most of the cams were maybe placed once, some looked brand new. I just had some of these cams reslung a few years back, and some of them reslung recently.

Purchasing used cams is just like placing it. Inspect, and make a judgement call.

I always wonder who the guy was that stole or sold the rack to a pawn shop. I definitely used the whole "I dont know what has been done with this climbing equipment" speech to help me get a better deal on the rack.

After writing the check to the pawn shop, my bank account was non-existent. But it was well worth it. I still use all of the metolius cams, and the rigid friend hangs out on my overflow cams.

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
portercassidy wrote:My first rack was scored out of a pawn shop in Logan, UT around 2002. Something like 11 metolius cams, a rigid friend, a hand full of stoppers, a pair of Trango ice tools, and a couple of VHS tapes for $150. Most of the cams were maybe placed once, some looked brand new. I just had some of these cams reslung a few years back, and some of them reslung recently. Purchasing used cams is just like placing it. Inspect, and make a judgement call. I always wonder who the guy was that stole or sold the rack to a pawn shop. I definitely used the whole "I dont know what has been done with this climbing equipment" speech to help me get a better deal on the rack. After writing the check to the pawn shop, my bank account was non-existent. But it was well worth it. I still use all of the metolius cams, and the rigid friend hangs out on my overflow cams.
I wonder what the pawn shop gave the victim if you paid 150
Crag Dweller · · New York, NY · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

If you can't tell the difference between a good cam and a bad one, it may not be a bad idea to keep climbing with experienced climbers (who have gear) until you can tell the difference.

Richard Fernandez · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 859

New.

Dustin Drake · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 5

What makes you trust a new cam?

Adam Stackhouse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 13,970

I have bought and sold tons of used hardware. Slings and the like I don't trust (even my own after a while). Used cams, nuts, and occasionally biners have served me just fine.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Buying Used Climbing Protection"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.