Buying Used Climbing Protection
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So I really want to build up my climbing rack, but I just cannot afford new gear especially cams which are so expensive. I check out the sales on ebay and MP and sometimes I think about buying used gear, but before I put in a bid I start thinking do I really want to trust used cams? |
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If you have to ask, |
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Plenty of good cams can be found on MP. I am always careful as to what I purchase on here. If it doesn't pass the eye test I wouldn't bother with it. |
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As far as used pro goes, I've never had a problem but know what you are buying. Make sure you have a reasonable idea about old they are (what they make is, etc.) and that the the cams and slings are in decent condition. Although I've never heard of a sling breaking, if you are concerned you can have them replaced by either the manufacturer or a place like Mountain Tools or Ragged Mountain (though this will add to the cost of the used cam). Personally I have gotten the best deals off craigslist and find ebay always way overpriced. MP is usually somewhere in between but there is generally a steady stream of stuff for sale. |
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YER GONNA DIE!! |
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It's like asking if you should use a used condom. It might work, it might not. You never know how someone's gear has been used and abused. |
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Buy new. |
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Pretty much everyone who climbs does so with used gear, even if it was new when they got it. If you have a magnifying glass and understand simple machinery and stress cracks you can score some decent used gear. There are people who disagree and feel nothing you don't know the entire history of can possibly be "safe", but we're in a sport that isn't "safe" to begin with- and so the debate goes... sort of like those PAS threads. Everyone draws their own line somewhere- I stick to new stuff if it's rope, harnesses, slings, etc. (basically any kind of fabric), but my used metal equipment has served me well over the years. |
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Nuts are probably the safest thing to buy used. As long as they look good they probably are. And yeah most of used stuff on here is pretty good. If you are really worried then get it reslung and call it good. |
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I think I've bought 6 new cams out of the close to 30 that I have. Most of my sport gear is new, but even it is filled out with a variety of old, but good draws. Taken plenty of falls on gear, new and used, never had a concern about it. |
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It's not hard to buy decent used gear. If it looks beat then it probably is. There's a lot of folks that over think this stuff and it is largely their loss. |
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brianjames wrote:I start thinking do I really want to trust used cams?All you naysayers, would you use a bootied cam? I'd take a good look at it and if it passed inspection, I'd use it. Might have it re-slung. Same with used gear bought on ebay, Craig's list or anywhere else. |
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Would you buy a used condom? |
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I've bought used gear that I totally trust as well as sold used gear that I had complete faith in. Just watch what you buy and who you buy it from. |
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buy used gear and place a lot of it. |
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My first rack was scored out of a pawn shop in Logan, UT around 2002. Something like 11 metolius cams, a rigid friend, a hand full of stoppers, a pair of Trango ice tools, and a couple of VHS tapes for $150. |
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portercassidy wrote:My first rack was scored out of a pawn shop in Logan, UT around 2002. Something like 11 metolius cams, a rigid friend, a hand full of stoppers, a pair of Trango ice tools, and a couple of VHS tapes for $150. Most of the cams were maybe placed once, some looked brand new. I just had some of these cams reslung a few years back, and some of them reslung recently. Purchasing used cams is just like placing it. Inspect, and make a judgement call. I always wonder who the guy was that stole or sold the rack to a pawn shop. I definitely used the whole "I dont know what has been done with this climbing equipment" speech to help me get a better deal on the rack. After writing the check to the pawn shop, my bank account was non-existent. But it was well worth it. I still use all of the metolius cams, and the rigid friend hangs out on my overflow cams.I wonder what the pawn shop gave the victim if you paid 150 |
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If you can't tell the difference between a good cam and a bad one, it may not be a bad idea to keep climbing with experienced climbers (who have gear) until you can tell the difference. |
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New. |
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What makes you trust a new cam? |
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I have bought and sold tons of used hardware. Slings and the like I don't trust (even my own after a while). Used cams, nuts, and occasionally biners have served me just fine. |