buy tagline or save for double ropes

Do you recommend/prefer double ropes or a single and a tagline?

Relevant info: I have a 1.5 yr-old 70m 9.8mm rope which has seen a lot of use, but I think it has a lot of life left. My favorite style is multipitch trad, but I also do singlepitch and sport. I haven't done a ton of alpine rock, But I am hoping to do more. I am starting to look at some routes that require full length rappels. In the upcoming future, I am more likely to get into aid climbing than ice climbing.

Obviously, double ropes have the advantage that you can keep climbing on one rope should one get severed, wheras climbing on a static 8mm or 7mm tagline would be super sketchy/dumb. However, seems like double ropes could be heavier, and make rope management somewhat more challenging at small belay stances. It seems that buying two new half ropes is significantly more expensive than buying one tagline.

What is your preference/opinion in tagline vs double ropes?
If you use a tagline, what diameter do you use?
If you use double ropes, what diameter/length do you use?

First off do you want twins or halfs? (see old thread for merits).

A tagline will be lighter, but you can't climb with it.
Twins are light and great for raps but must be clipped together
Halves are great for wandering ice and alpine routes and can be fallen on individually, but are thicker. Using twins and halves aren't really much harder...you'll get used to it in the first pitch, but yeah technique helps of course.

Sounds like you should figure out what you plan to use them for first.

I use Mammut Genesis 8.5 Half ropes, but I also have a thin cord for trad, bigger for TR etc. I use my 1/2's where the situation calls for it.

mountainproject.com/v/gener…

I have a set of double ropes as well as a thin single rope and tag line. I tend to use the single rope with tag line far more often. About the only time I use the double rope is when I'm climbing in a group of three.

The single line with a tag line is for me:
- more versatile (easy to haul a pack if you need to, you can jug on the single line without shitting your pants)
- faster (less rope management, the tag line stays in the pack most of the time)
- lighter weight
- cheaper (not only is the tag line cheaper, but it dosn't have to be replaced as often)
- better for aid (get half way up the pitch and need more pins, pass them up with the tag line)

Double ropes are great for wandering multi-pitch, but they're definitely heavier and are a huge hassle for anything short. Also, if you plan on getting into aid, forget about doubles. Sounds like a tag line is the option for you.

I bought 200 feet of poly pro / nylon rope at home depot for $20. I've used it for a tagline and pulled close to 15 raps with it (mostly in red rocks). Its not climbing spec, but since you aren't climbing with it, it seems to work fine. Definitely was a good alternative to me spending $100+ on a student budget. It is very light.

IMO Keep your single for short stuff and get a set of doubles for anything long. Doubles add to the rope work on anything where doubles aren't needed but they are super versatile on long multi-pitch routes. Raps are completely straight forward with doubles and if you have to have 2 cords they may as well add to redundancy, give you options, and help with drag.

If you go with a tag line make sure you know your systems cold. It tends to make a simple system just a bit more complex... meaning added room for error.

supertopo.com/climbing/thre…

Thanks for all your help, everyone!

John Maguire wrote:I bought 200 feet of poly pro / nylon rope at home depot for $20. I've used it for a tagline and pulled close to 15 raps with it (mostly in red rocks). Its not climbing spec, but since you aren't climbing with it, it seems to work fine. Definitely was a good alternative to me spending $100+ on a student budget. It is very light.

Do you rap on just the single lead rope or both at the same time? Just make sure you don't melt the Home Depot rope.

I only rap down the single lead rope. The tagline is just guided as you rap. I guess I should have been more clear... This method only really works if you have bolts or a rap ring that you can back an EDK or a Biner or a figure-8 bight into (usually the biner/figure 8).

Its a cheap solution, therefore not the most versatile...

John Maguire wrote:I bought 200 feet of poly pro / nylon rope at home depot for $20. I've used it for a tagline and pulled close to 15 raps with it (mostly in red rocks). Its not climbing spec, but since you aren't climbing with it, it seems to work fine. Definitely was a good alternative to me spending $100+ on a student budget. It is very light.

Awesome idea, hombre. Many times I would just like a wee bit of insurance for an unexpected bail.

Thanks.

I have both setups, and I like half ropes a lot more.

It gives me the freedom to wander around, without having something attached to my butt that's only useful at the end of the day.

I find I use halfs primarily when climbing alpine routes, and linking up pitches in Eldo.

I use a single and drag the tag when I'm climbing cracks and won't ever wander on a route.

Ryan Williams wrote: Do you rap on just the single lead rope or both at the same time? Just make sure you don't melt the Home Depot rope.

So lets be clear here. You tie an EDK with your rap rope ($20) and pass the main rope through the rap-ring. You then 'biner block it by tyeing a figure-8 on your rap rope and hook your locking 'biner through the rap rope figure-8 and around the main rope (under the rap ring) as you would normally do.

So here's the question, do you trust your life to a $20 rope that is nylon and can melt due to high stress (aka when your main rope pulls taught at the rap ring). Because there's no f'ing way I would. For the sake of saving $80 it's not worth my life.

Surprised it hasn't been mentioned yet. Get a 7.8 or 8.0mm half rope as your tag line. If uhh later decide to but another half rope and run with the doubles, you've already got one. If you're but hauling, having a dynamic tag line is no big deal. I bought a mammut 8.0 that weighs 42g/m. If weight matters a lot then look at the metolius monster 7.8 which weighs 38g/m

I got a set of Edelrid's flycatcher twins, which are 6.9mm diameter and 35g/m. A bit pricey for a set, since you have to buy it all at once. $350 for two ropes and the specially made extra small steel belay device (which works for other twin/half diameter ropes). Once you get over the fact that each rope is smaller than the diameter of your pinky - they are rad, light and small. They are no harder to use, the skills are picked up quickly, as said above.

Then, if and when you have to retire one of them just use the other as your tag line for your single rope. Works well for me.

Gaz wrote: So lets be clear here. You tie an EDK with your rap rope ($20) and pass the main rope through the rap-ring. You then 'biner block it by tyeing a figure-8 on your rap rope and hook your locking 'biner through the rap rope figure-8 and around the main rope (under the rap ring) as you would normally do. So here's the question, do you trust your life to a $20 rope that is nylon and can melt due to high stress (aka when your main rope pulls taught at the rap ring). Because there's no f'ing way I would. For the sake of saving $80 it's not worth my life.

I'm pretty sure that under no circumstances is the $20 pull line ever loaded aside from being used to pull down the main line (which is what is rapped on). You're misunderstanding where the biner block goes and which rope is rappelled on. I'm pretty sure he's smart enough to not use the pull line for anything other than a pull line.

blah

If you have a weak tagline as above, you just tie the biner block on the other side of the joining knot (on the main rope) and rappel solely on that strand. I actually don't see a reason why you would ever set it up the way it is shown in that diagram unless you absolutely needed those couple of extra inches.

Biner block with the knot on the main rope...ALWAYS!

and not the way its pictured.

PMI verglas 8.1mm dry and rated for use as both twin and half use = awesome. CLICK ME

Looks like they've changed their color scheme and added a 70m option as well.

Feel like rubber bands @ the end of a 200 ft. rap prolly give you some extra length as well.