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 ADVANCED
The Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buttress T,TR 
Chimney, The T 
Fool on a Hill T,S 
Nose, The T 
Watusi T 
Unsorted Routes:

Buttress 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Hugo Stadmuller and John Porter, 1963
Page Views: 974
Submitted By: dragons on Mar 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: At the bottom of the photo you see the rusty horiz...

Description 

The route gets progressively harder the higher you climb. I've only been up it about halfway. The lower part of the route is slightly overhung but with plenty of holds and good feet. The holds get thinner as you climb up.

Location 

The route starts about 15 feet to the right of the corner where Buttress wall meets Fisherman's Wall, where "Tarzan" and "Fool on the Hill" routes start.

Climb up a jagged boulder. Just above the boulder, the rock face is light with some rusty, horizontal streaks. There is a shallow dihedral at your left. Climb it and keep going up perhaps 15 feet. Then veer right perhaps 5-10 feet (this is where I stopped, so the rest is hearsay), then veer left to get to the ledge.

This info was garnered from Boston Rocks 2nd edition and also Rock Climbing New England guidebook. There's a 2-bolt chain anchor on the ledge, used for both Fool on a Hill and Buttress. The route continues up past a bolt, but it's reported that the climb becomes 5.10 from here and has poor protection, hence the R rating.

Protection 

Use a top rope.


Photos of Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Dragons puzzling out how to continue up Buttress.
BETA PHOTO: Dragons puzzling out how to continue up Buttress.
Alan Jenkins working Buttress.
Alan Jenkins working Buttress.
Christopher Lane heading onto Buttress from the le...
Christopher Lane heading onto Buttress from the le...
Christopher Lane coming of the ledge at Buttress.
Christopher Lane coming of the ledge at Buttress.
Christopher Lane on the starting ledge at Buttress...
Christopher Lane on the starting ledge at Buttress...
Upper section of Buttress (5.9).
BETA PHOTO: Upper section of Buttress (5.9).

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By losbill
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The Buttress to the chains is a fine route at 5.8+ with G protection. Stepping up to gain the ramp to the Chimney from the right side of the ledge with the chains is definitely R rated with ankle breaking potential. The bolt is poorly placed and should be 2 & 1/2 feet higher. I have only successfully climbed to the ramp this way on top rope. I have gone up to lead climb to the ramp several times over the years but always backed off. I would rate the moves 5.9+ with definite ledge impact if you blow the moves.
By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Apr 5, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One of my favorite routes at Crow Hill. Was surprised to see it only get 2 stars on here. I find it easier than most of the 5.8 climbs here.
By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Protection is adequate for a safe lead to the chains. There are several excellent horizontals for small cams, with decent stances for making the placement. Camp Tri-Cams work great on this route!