The Buttress Of Cracks is, as the name implies, a good spot for crack climbing but there's some good face climbs to be done here as well. The longest climbs here are two pitches with most being long, single pitch affairs. Descents vary from walk offs to rappels depending upon the climb.
Crack climbers will enjoy The Hernia (5.8), Sword of Damocles (5.9), Frustration (5.10a), Insomnia (5.11b/c) and The Pirate (5.12d). Face climbers will want to try out Double Exposure (5.10b A1 or 5.12a R), Arcy Farcy (5.10d), Winter Solstice (5.11c) and Blade Runner (5.12b).
The approach trail meets the rock very near the right side of the Buttress of Cracks. To access the left-hand portion walk left following a good trail along the base of the wall. Continuing just past this wall you will reach the Sunshine Face and Smooth Sole Walls.
Weather station 1.8 miles from here
28 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buttress of Cracks:
Featured Route For Buttress of Cracks
Insomnia 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c CA
: Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks
: ... : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
This classic crack is found on the left end of the Buttress Of Cracks, just left of the Double Exposure arete and facing towards the Sunshine Face.Climb 25' up Buttress Chimney, the wide crack between the Sunshine Face & Buttress Of Cracks, and then enter a flared chimney (5.9) below a striking crack. Wiggle up the chimney and then launch directly into the crux, which can be jammed straight on or liebacked depending upon your hand size or preference. Higher the crack makes a jog left via a steep...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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