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Buttress of Cracks - Left Side 
Buttress of Cracks - Right Side 

Buttress of Cracks 


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Elevation: 6,000'
Page Views: 67,613. Good page?   
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006

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Description 

The Buttress Of Cracks is, as the name implies, a good spot for crack climbing but there's some good face climbs to be done here as well. The longest climbs here are two pitches with most being long, single pitch affairs. Descents vary from walk offs to rappels depending upon the climb.

Crack climbers will enjoy The Hernia (5.8), Sword of Damocles (5.9), Frustration (5.10a), Insomnia (5.11b/c) and The Pirate (5.12d). Face climbers will want to try out Double Exposure (5.10b A1 or 5.12a R), Arcy Farcy (5.10d), Winter Solstice (5.11c) and Blade Runner (5.12b).


Getting There 

The approach trail meets the rock very near the right side of the Buttress of Cracks. To access the left-hand portion walk left following a good trail along the base of the wall. Continuing just past this wall you will reach the Sunshine Face and Smooth Sole Walls.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buttress of Cracks:
Captain Hook   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
The Hernia   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Hernia - Direct Finish   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Double Exposure   5.10b A1     Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Arcy Farcy   5.10c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Insomnia   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Winter Solstice   5.11c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Blade Runner   5.12b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Buttress of Cracks - Right ...
The Pirate   5.12d     Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet   Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
Browse More Classics in Buttress of Cracks

Featured Route For Buttress of Cracks
Kris ticked The Pirate. Bruce Bourassa clicked the shutter. A nice cool afternoon in 1994...

The Pirate 5.12d  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Buttress of Cracks - Left S...
This striking thin crack testpiece up a smooth 85 degree slab was originally done as an aid climb and just over a decade later freed, in 1978, by a 16 year old Tony Yaniro (wearing EB's) who went on to climb the Grand Illusion near Lake Tahoe the following year. The climb saw no repeats until sticky rubber-soled Fire's hit the U.S. market around 1982. Even in this era of big numbers this still is a challenging route that seldom sees a free ascent, especially on lead. Equinox at nearby Joshu...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA