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Buttonrock

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Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life 
Entryway Slabs 
Old Yellar Dome 
River Wall II 
Tigers in Lipstick 

Buttonrock 


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Location: 40.2291, -105.34545 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 115,812
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Nov 27, 2001
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Patty Johnson bouldering at Buttonrock Reservoir.
CLOSED for 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Also located west of Lyons, this area is cousin to the South Saint Vrain (SSV). Like the SSV there are both trad and sport routes on a variety of features. Rock quality varies from superb to choss. One of Buttonrock's centerpieces is the classic River Wall. This steep wall has steep cracks alongside of both technical and pumpy sport routes. Well-known climbers from Boulder and around the Front Range developed this area in the last three decades. The best climbing season is whenever it isn't precipitating, possibly year-round as the aspect of the formations is diverse. River Wall in particular has midday sun, but is often chilly due to breeze off the river. The Falcon guide to Lyons area covers both Buttonrock and the SSV.


Getting There 

Drive to Lyons on CO 66, this can be reached via US 36 from Boulder. Continue past the junction in Lyons of US 36 and CO Hwy 7 (CO Hwy 7 takes one to the SSV) for about 3.7 miles. Look carefully on the left for a sign for Shelly's Cottages. Turn left here on County Road 80. One half-mile on the left are Entryway Slabs, another tenth of a mile are Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life. About 2.3 miles further one reaches a steel gate and parking. One can hike along the road to reach River Wall, Old Yellar, and other formations.


28 Total Routes


['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',5],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',5],['5.11',2],['5.12',5],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buttonrock:
Tigers in Lipstick   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   Tigers in Lipstick
Green Slab   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport   Buick Rocks and Hitler's Se...
The Buick   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Buick Rocks and Hitler's Se...
Livewire   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   River Wall II
Introducing Meteor Dad   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   River Wall II
Escape from Alcatraz   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   River Wall II
Pocket Hercules   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   River Wall II
Neurosurgeon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   River Wall II
Redneck Hero   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   River Wall II
Big Big Monkey Man   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   River Wall II
New Horizon   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   River Wall II
Old Yellar   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Old Yellar Dome
Brother From Another Planet   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   River Wall II
Le Diamant E'ternal   5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   River Wall II
Browse More Classics in Buttonrock

Featured Route For Buttonrock
Through the crux.

Redneck Hero 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a  CO : Lyons : ... : River Wall II
Classic pumpy sport route climbs directly out of the drink. Reach the Escape from Alcatraz pedastal via rock hopping across river, or access the right side of wall and boulder again left. Climbing directly left from the pedestal, clip traversing bolt with runner or double runner (or unclip later). Now, climb the past the corner and up into the thuggish face. The crux comes near the top after the pump is well settled into the forearms. Great moves, rock and fun!...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Buttonrock Slideshow Add Photo
River Wall, Buttonrock. Photo: Bob Horan Collection.
River Wall, Buttonrock. Photo: Bob Horan Collectio...
Crack climbing at Buttonrock, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Crack climbing at Buttonrock, photo: Bob Horan Col...
Comments on Buttonrock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Pinklebear
5 days ago
CONDITION REPORT 

Don't bother going to Buttonrock Reservoir until 2015. We drove in today, not thinking about the floods, but the reservoir and preserve are closed while they clean things up back there. We were able to drive the road almost all the way to the lot, but then a ranger turned us around. There's nowhere along the road to park either, and they don't want people back there for now. The ranger said it will open again in 2015.

By Stephen Allen
May 1, 2002

There is some great bouldering in this area, the Lion's Den is a mere 20 minute hike up the slope opposite the River Wall. Many unclimbed rock still remains in the vicinity with Twin Dinosaurs (only one established problem, "Snott the Mamma" V4, just across a meadow from the Den).

By Anonymous Coward
May 13, 2002

This was the worst area yet! Approaches are long, long, long and boring. Encountered hostile, beer-swilling fishermen at the parking area; our car was vandalized. This was definitely a 'never-again' experience for us. With so much great rock along the Front Range, why would anyone waste their time in Lyons?

By Stephen Allen
Jun 7, 2002

I have never found this to be the case, the Lion's Den area is very isolated (ok the approach includes hiking 1 1/2 miles up a steep draw), but the sheer quality and quantity of problems make for a great day of climbing.

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 25, 2003

I love climbing and fishing at Button Rock. Have had nothing but pleasant experiences here. Hopefully everyone else does also.

By Umph!
Nov 22, 2004

If you hike up the road to the fork (porta-potty), there are some good/okay routes and many topropes across the river (east side) - you can't miss the large crag. Cross the river just above the pipe-gate heading toward the dam/res; some new route potential as well. Great place if you want true solitude.

By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 9, 2009

The area mentioned by camerones looks like it has a lot of potential. But the slabs look as if they would need some fixed hardware.

EDIT: This section is referred to in the new Gillett guide as Below Price (as in below Price Dam).