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Uninspiring 5.8-5.9 climbing leads to a fun, but short, 5.10a corner.
Pitch 1: begin in a dirty splitter hand/fist crack in a left-facing corner and goes up about 25 feet to a dirty ledge. Go slightly left up some loose rock then head right over two small bulges (5.9). Set the belay just right of a roof, next to the slot with a fist crack in the back.
Pitch 2: Go up the pseudo-offwidth that is aided by the use of the fist crack in the back for 25 feet (5.10a).
This route is on the far west side of Big Butt and close to Little Butt. Walk off to the west.
Pro: standard rack with double #3 Camalots for upper pitch. #3.5 Camalot is optional.
By Deaun Schovajsa
Oct 17, 2008
FA: Dave Gottenborg and Deaun Schovajsa, December of 1987.