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 ADVANCED
The Y Crack Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.11 Problem, The TR 
Butthole Express T,S 
Chimney T 
Hairy Airy T 
Route 56 T 
Y Crack, The T,TR 

Butthole Express 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,749
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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BETA PHOTO: When sport climbing this route an easy way to clea...

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Description 

This is the first route encountered at the Y Crack Area. It is a three bolt face route that ascends a short series of low angle bulges. Although the crux is mantling over the first bolt, the name comes from the handholds thereafter.

Protection 

3 bolts, but pro for the top anchor


Photos of Butthole Express Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down from the top of the Butthole Express ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the top of the Butthole Express ...
Lynne Leichtfuss on Butthoe Express.
Lynne Leichtfuss on Butthoe Express.
When I get a chance to build an anchor on top of B...
BETA PHOTO: When I get a chance to build an anchor on top of B...
BH-Express
BETA PHOTO: BH-Express

Comments on Butthole Express Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 4, 2006

Originally, this was the only bolted lead at Dixon Lake. It consisted of the first two bolts. A third bolt, which has been added sometime in the last couple of years, was always wanted but done traditionally without. Oddly, the Y Crack to the right has had a recently added bolts for a belay/TR set-up despite the obvious pro anchor, but this route which could have used a bolt anchor remains absent of.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2008

Onsight with no issue. Since then, can't figure my way through it - what the zork am I doing wrong?
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Nov 28, 2008

Always enjoyed this one. Was one of the TR's I put newbies on.
By Raquel ROCKY Robles
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 12, 2011

I TR'd this route for a bit until I was ready to lead it. Fun and balancy.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 16, 2012

Not 5.11 as described in the video.


By Raquel ROCKY Robles
From: Encinitas, CA
May 25, 2012

I have led this route a handful of times. It still kicks my butt...HAA!! No pun intended!! Led it again on 5.21.12.
By Jason Kim
From: Encinitas, CA
Apr 1, 2013

Pretty damn tricky for the grade! Interesting and insecure moves on this one.