Butthole Express 5.8
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the top of the Butthole Express ...
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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>
- Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!
- Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors
- Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is the first route encountered at the Y Crack Area. It is a three bolt face route that ascends a short series of low angle bulges. Although the crux is mantling over the first bolt, the name comes from the handholds thereafter.
Protection 3 bolts, but pro for the top anchor
Lynne Leichtfuss on Butthoe Express.
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BETA PHOTO: BH-Express
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BETA PHOTO: When I get a chance to build an anchor on top of B...
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| Comments on Butthole Express |
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 4, 2006
| Originally, this was the only bolted lead at Dixon Lake. It consisted of the first two bolts. A third bolt, which has been added sometime in the last couple of years, was always wanted but done traditionally without. Oddly, the Y Crack to the right has had a recently added bolts for a belay/TR set-up despite the obvious pro anchor, but this route which could have used a bolt anchor remains absent of. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 27, 2008
| Onsight with no issue. Since then, can't figure my way through it - what the zork am I doing wrong? |
By Raquel ROCKY Robles
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 12, 2011
| I TR'd this route for a bit until I was ready to lead it. Fun and balancy. |
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 16, 2012
| Not 5.11 as described in the video.
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By Raquel ROCKY Robles
From: Encinitas, CA
May 25, 2012
| I have led this route a handful of times. It still kicks my butt...HAA!! No pun intended!! Led it again on 5.21.12. |
By Jason Kim
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 1, 2013
| Pretty damn tricky for the grade! Interesting and insecure moves on this one. |
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