Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 6,400 ft
GPS: 37.3276, -118.5757
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 808,070 total · 4,157/month
Shared By: AWinters on Mar 31, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

The famed Buttermilks Main hillside- one of the premier bouldering destinations in the world.

This is the main bouldering venue in the Buttermilks, offering the highest concentration of boulders and classic routes within a convenient roadside locale. Climbers flock from all over the world to test themselves on this hillside, pushing both their physical and mental limitations on these massive blocs. Most first time visitors will be overwhelmed not only by the breathtaking beauty of the area, but also by the shear quantity of classic boulder problems in the vicinity. If you're new to Bishop and/or the Buttermilks make this area priority #1. The landings are flat and sandy, and the setting is unbelievable.

The area's approximate boundaries lie from the Stained Glass/Flyboy Area on the west end of the hillside, across and eastwards to the giant Peabody Boulders. Featured here are hundreds of great boulder problems and classics such as 'The Mandala', 'Evilution', 'High Plains Drifter', and the ever-popular 'Iron Man Traverse'.

* * * * * * DO NOT CAMP or BUILD FIRES at the BIRTHDAY BOULDERS PARKING AREA * * * * * *

Due to the ever-increasing popularity of the area, foot traffic and human impact has had a huge effect on the vegetation and ecology of this fragile desert environment. Please avoid all plants and pack out all trash. Make it a point to stay within the designated footpaths.

Andrew Thomas on 'Saigon'

Getting There Suggest change

Approximately 3.5 miles down Buttermilk Road. The boulders will be on your right, clearly visible and obvious from the road. These boulders can be accessed either by the parallel-style Peabody Parking Area or the parking loop at the Birthday Parking Area, farther up the road (take a right after the cattle guard).

Please don't walk here.

292 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Buttermilks Main Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Buttermilks Main

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 253
Robinson's Rubber Tester
Boulder
V0 4
 593
Hero Roof
Boulder
V1 5
 406
Buttermilk Stem
Boulder
V2 5+
 334
The Hunk
Boulder
V3 6A
 315
King Tut
Boulder
V3 6A
 361
Birthday Direct
Boulder
V3 6A
 330
Funky Tut
Boulder
V4 6B
 533
Iron Man Traverse
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 290
Bowling Pin
Boulder
V5 6C
 263
Flyboy Arete
Boulder
V6 7A
 123
Saigon
Boulder
V6 7A
 182
Green Wall Center
Boulder
V7 7A+
 268
High Plains Drifter
Boulder
V9 7C
 147
Soul Slinger
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 143
Southwest Arete
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Robinson's Rubber Tester Cave Area > Robinson's Rubber Tes…
 253
V0 4 Boulder
Hero Roof Iron Man Area > Hero Roof Boulder
 593
V0 4 Boulder
Buttermilk Stem Buttermilk Stem… > Buttermilk Stem Boulder
 406
V1 5 Boulder
The Hunk Hunk
 334
V2 5+ Boulder
King Tut Tut Boulder
 315
V3 6A Boulder
Birthday Direct Birthday Boulders
 361
V3 6A Boulder
Funky Tut Tut Boulder
 330
V3 6A Boulder
Iron Man Traverse Iron Man Area > Iron Man Boulder
 533
V4 6B Boulder
Bowling Pin Bowling Pin Boulder
 290
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Flyboy Arete Stained Glass/Flyboy…
 263
V5 6C Boulder
Saigon Saigon Boulder
 123
V6 7A Boulder
Green Wall Center Green Wall Boulder
 182
V6 7A Boulder
High Plains Drifter Drifter/Smoking Boulder
 268
V7 7A+ Boulder
Soul Slinger Cave Area > Soul Slinger Boulder
 147
V9 7C Boulder
Southwest Arete Peabody Boulders > Grandma Peabody Boulder
 143
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Buttermilks Main »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading