Buttermilk Falls WI3-4
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| Type: | Ice, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | WI3-4 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Adam Catalano on Feb 27, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: P4(??) of BMF
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Description This climb has six fun pitches with about a one minute walk following each step. The steps are anywhere between 40 and 80 feet high. About half are WI3 and half WI4. The final pitch is a pillar that is by far the tallest, toughest and latest to come in.
Protection Typical ice pro, use directionals at the top of each pitch and angle off to a tree for anchors. Rap off trees back to packs.
BETA PHOTO: The top two pitches of Buttermilk Falls, Catskills...
| BETA PHOTO: The top pitch. This is the middle of what are usu...
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| Comments on Buttermilk Falls |
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By Dara From: NYC and Boulder Jan 2, 2010
| This one is big fun; the approach can be a bit treacherous, especially if there is no snow, just wet leaves over slippery shale slabs. And take care not to punch through when crossing the creek. |
By Gunkiemike Feb 8, 2010
| No need to rap P1, 2, 6, or 7. Look for tracks off to the side: climbers' right on P7, CL on the others. If you don't see fixed slings, it's because there's a walk-off. Lots of folks rap P7 and bust the ice underneath before it has a chance to fill in; please don't be that guy. |
By MiguelC Feb 7, 2013
| Does any one know how how Buttermilk gets affected when there is a lot of snowfall? Avalanche danger? |
By josh huntley Feb 14, 2013
| It is probably much easier to descend with a lot of snow especially with snowshoes. It can be treacherous with rocks and falling through ice with little snowpack. No avalanche hazard here. |
By susiQ Feb 27, 2013
| anyone know what township this is in ? |
By Ryan Morse Mar 6, 2013
| I'm not a local and found Kaaterskill Falls proper (which is not on this site but had numerous easy, and very steep routes) instead of Buttermilk falls but I am fairly certain that it falls on 23A somewhere between Haines Falls and Palenville there is quite a bit of ice on that stretch. With the given directions I'm still unsure, more cross referencing to other parking areas and other routes will be required before I understand, but there is plenty of see a climb and walk to it options on 23A so that anybody could get by for a number of days down there. |
By Gunkiemike Mar 15, 2013
| Ryan - there's a full page map in the Catskill Ice guidebook that makes the location of Buttermilk and the other Rt 23A climbs very clear. |
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