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Buttermilk Crags

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Dune 
Jabba's Party Barge 
Owl, The 
Rump Rock 
Skin Diver 
Slab, The 
South Mount Klieforth 
Surveyor Rock 
Wavelength 
Windy Wall 
Wrangler Rock 
Y Boulder, The 

Buttermilk Crags  


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Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 22, 2006
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Mitch Musci at the Windy Wall

Description 

These are the crags on the hill to the north of the main bouldering area. The 'Frontside Crags' are closest to the Frontside parking. Here you will find Wrangler Rock, The Dune, Skin Diver, Wall of 21 Cracks and Surveyor Rock.

'Picnic Valley' is to the north of the top of the hill. The Owl, South Mt. Klieforth and The Slab are in this area.

The Windy Wall and other crags lie to the west.

Getting There 

The Frontside Crags are easily approached by the trail from Frontside parking or the old jeep trail.
Windy Wall and Wavelength Wall are best approached from Backside parking.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.5 miles from here

49 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',7],['5.9',8],['5.10',24],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buttermilk Crags:
Scoot   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   Windy Wall
Cayenne Pepper   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 30'   Windy Wall
Clean Sweep   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 30'   Windy Wall
Browse More Classics in Buttermilk Crags

Featured Route For Buttermilk Crags
Lauren McGeoch approaching the third and final bol...

Miles From Nowhere 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Windy Wall
Awesome overhung huecos on the far right side of the Windy Wall. Runout after 3rd bolt, with only some thin, questionable pro protecting the final roof/bulge. The anchor used to be a huge pile of webbing around a giant horn, but it was very ugly and visible even from the parking area. We removed the eyesore old anchor and replaced it with a 2-bolt anchor with mussy hooks, and replaced the upper two bolts (the first had been replaced earlier)....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Buttermilk Crags Slideshow Add Photo
Doug Robinson posing in the same place as Smoke wh...
Doug Robinson posing in the same place as Smoke wh...
Sierras from the top of the crags. Photo by Blitzo...
Sierras from the top of the crags. Photo by Blitzo...
Buttermilk Crags. Photo by Blitzo.
Buttermilk Crags. Photo by Blitzo.
White Mountains from near The Buttermilk Crags. Du...
White Mountains from near The Buttermilk Crags. Du...
South Mt. Klieforth. Photo by Blitzo.
South Mt. Klieforth. Photo by Blitzo.
Wavelength area. Photo by Blitzo.
Wavelength area. Photo by Blitzo.
The buttermilks
The buttermilks
Windy Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Windy Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Skin Diver-early morning. Photo by Blitzo.
Skin Diver-early morning. Photo by Blitzo.
The Owl-West and South faces. Photo by Blitzo.
The Owl-West and South faces. Photo by Blitzo.
Picnic Valley. Photo by Blitzo.
Picnic Valley. Photo by Blitzo.
Crags sunrise. Photo by Blitzo.
Crags sunrise. Photo by Blitzo.
Buttermilk Crags. Photo by Blitzo.
Buttermilk Crags. Photo by Blitzo.
Y Boulder. Photo by Blitzo
Y Boulder. Photo by Blitzo

Comments on Buttermilk Crags Add Comment
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By jessenichols
Nov 1, 2013
the owl
the owl

What route is this up the owl?