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Trashcan Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Butterfly Crack T 
Filch T 
Filth T 
Gripper Traverse 
Hermanutic T 
Left Sawdust Crack T 
Mr. Freeze 
Right Sawdust Crack T 
Ripper 
Wallaby Crack T 

Butterfly Crack 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: John Bald and John Long, 1973
Page Views: 1,624
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Phil Howerzyl cruising.

Description 

This is between Hermanutic and the Sawdust cracks. Greasy tips locks lead to a juggy hand crack. Good rock.

The protection is maybe PG- bomber, but it's too strenuous to place it until you're a ways up.

Protection 

1-3"


Photos of Butterfly Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Dan Popa working the first few moves
BETA PHOTO: Dan Popa working the first few moves
Gary, getting started with the tip locks.
Gary, getting started with the tip locks.
Nice headjam or man-eating crack?
Nice headjam or man-eating crack?
Anne, entering the hand crack. February 1986.
Anne, entering the hand crack. February 1986.
Gary, now on cruise control.
Gary, now on cruise control.
Anne moving up!
Anne moving up!
Gary, now past the crux start.
Gary, now past the crux start.
Gary moving smoothly on Butterfly Crack.
Gary moving smoothly on Butterfly Crack.

Comments on Butterfly Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Randy
Apr 16, 2003

According to the O'Kelly's Crack maxum (first 10 feet don't count toward the rating), this route should be 5.9! The bottom is hard (and has gotten a bit harder as the ground at the base has eroded away over the years).
By Gary Kleiger
May 13, 2003

Maybe the rating should be V2 for the boulder problem, and 5.9 for the route.
By Blitzo
Sep 8, 2006

The new sign says 5.11a!
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 10, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Bouldery move off the ground to a couple nasty/greasy tips locks moves or a few lieback moves. Feels about the same difficulty whether you lieback or lock, just decide whether you want insecure hands or insecure feet.