|Trashcan Rock - East Face
This is between Hermanutic and the Sawdust cracks. Greasy tips locks lead to a juggy hand crack. Good rock.
The protection is maybe PG- bomber, but it's too strenuous to place it until you're a ways up.
BETA PHOTO: Dan Popa working the first few moves
Gary, getting started with the tip locks.
Nice headjam or man-eating crack?
Anne, entering the hand crack. February 1986.
Gary, now on cruise control.
Anne moving up!
Gary, now past the crux start.
Gary moving smoothly on Butterfly Crack.
|Comments on Butterfly Crack
Apr 16, 2003
According to the O'Kelly's Crack maxum (first 10 feet don't count toward the rating), this route should be 5.9! The bottom is hard (and has gotten a bit harder as the ground at the base has eroded away over the years).
|By Gary Kleiger|
May 13, 2003
Maybe the rating should be V2 for the boulder problem, and 5.9 for the route.
Sep 8, 2006
The new sign says 5.11a!
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 10, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Bouldery move off the ground to a couple nasty/greasy tips locks moves or a few lieback moves. Feels about the same difficulty whether you lieback or lock, just decide whether you want insecure hands or insecure feet.