Butterfly Crack 5.11c
| 1,285 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | John Bald and John Long, 1973 |
| Submitted By: | AJ on Jan 1, 2002 |
| |
Anne, entering the hand crack. February 1986.
Add Photo  Printer View
Description This is between Hermanutic and the Sawdust cracks. Greasy tips locks lead to a juggy hand crack. Good rock.
The protection is maybe PG- bomber, but it's too strenuous to place it until you're a ways up.
Protection 1-3"
BETA PHOTO: Dan Popa working the first few moves
|
Nice headjam or man-eating crack?
|
Phil Howerzyl cruising.
|
Gary, now past the crux start.
|
Gary, getting started with the tip locks.
|
Anne moving up!
|
Gary, now on cruise control.
| | |
| Comments on Butterfly Crack |
|
By Randy
Apr 16, 2003
| According to the O'Kelly's Crack maxum (first 10 feet don't count toward the rating), this route should be 5.9! The bottom is hard (and has gotten a bit harder as the ground at the base has eroded away over the years). |
By Gary Kleiger
May 13, 2003
| Maybe the rating should be V2 for the boulder problem, and 5.9 for the route. |
By Blitzo
Sep 8, 2006
| The new sign says 5.11a! |
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 10, 2008
rating: 5.11c
| Bouldery move off the ground to a couple nasty/greasy tips locks moves or a few lieback moves. Feels about the same difficulty whether you lieback or lock, just decide whether you want insecure hands or insecure feet. |
|
RSS Feed
10 more...
Slideshow
