Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Emerald Lake & vicinity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Butterfingers T 
Coconut Bliss 
Dairy Lite 
No. 1 Gully 
No. 2 Gully 
Squid, The 
Steeplechase T 
Tastee Freeze 
Unsorted Routes:

Butterfingers 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b M4

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b M4 [details]
FA: Possibly Chad Volk and Erik Werner, 5/21/11
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 481
Submitted By: Erik W on Dec 19, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Start to Butterfingers.

Description 

Name comes from the simple fact that I dropped a ton of kit while on the FA. Freezing cold at the base while belaying I tried to add a balaclava... ZIP, helmet went like an upside down turtle down to Emerald Lake. Further up, was scrambling with tools hooked over my neck and dropped one down the ridge into the descent gully. Butterfingers.

P1: Find the start chimney behind a fin, it angles right. Fun climbing straight up chimney (M4) leads to block ledge system. From here, either take blocky ridge on right to pink headwall or move left and climb smooth slab to same spot (M4+).

P2: At headwall, either traverse left and immediately head up over bulges (M4) or take headwall diagonaling crack (M4-M5). Head straight up ridge, climbing the fun, bouldery steps and cracks as they present themselves. Climb up to big ledge below a clear headwall, or as far as rope drag permits.

P3: Climb headwall, M3+/M4, via the offwidth and then take the left exit of the Y-crack. Bomber tool and gear placements. Continue as far as you can on the ridge until rope drag shuts you down. Might be able to make it up to tree.

P4: Continue along ridge to final difficulties. Take ledge out to right and climb the vertical section at the clear weakness (5.8, be careful, the boulder up top moves). Continue up to final corner leading to summit (5.6).

Descent: Downclimb back of block to trees in gully on right. Rap anchor on lowest tree (you can also just downclimb a gully if the snow is safe).


Location 

This is on the same mossy, chossy buttress above Emerald as other routes. Skirt base to far right, directly before the descent gully. Several options exist for first pitch - blocky starts aplenty, or the chimney we used.


Protection 

Standard rack to #2 Camalot. No screws, no pins.



Photos of Butterfingers Slideshow Add Photo
P1 of Butterfingers.  Look behind the fin in the other beta photo.
BETA PHOTO: P1 of Butterfingers. Look behind the fin in the o...
Butterfingers (5.7, M4). Base photo (C) JeffF.
BETA PHOTO: Butterfingers (5.7, M4). Base photo (C) JeffF.
Chad Volk on p1 of Butterfingers.  Was a cold morning.
Chad Volk on p1 of Butterfingers. Was a cold morn...
Headwall on p3 - if possible, belay can be place on ledge at base of headwall. Go up offwidth and then exit via left branch of Y-crack.  Bomber tool and gear placements... really fun section.
BETA PHOTO: Headwall on p3 - if possible, belay can be place o...
Comments on Butterfingers Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -