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The crux is right of the belay. Climb the leaning crack to a fixed nut. At the crack disappears, a foothold appears on the right. Then reach far right for a good hand jam (11a). Easier if tall. Then climb thin hands to the top (10b).
There is bad potential for falling on your belayer. It may be a good idea to move the belay to the left.
The climb starts at the top of Butterballs/Wheat Thin. You can do Waverly/Butterballs/Butterfingers as Nabisco (10c/11c/11a), or Beverly's/Wheat Thin/Butterfingers as Nabisco Light (10a/10c/11a).
Few small pieces protect the crux. Some thin hand gear for the top.
|Comments on Butterfingers
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Oct 2, 2008
no more fixed nut! hah.
|By Kevin Friedrich|
Oct 28, 2008
ALiens: 1 red; 1 yellow, 1 Blue for tips crack.
Cams: 2 reds and 2 greens for tight hands above.
From: San Jose
Feb 23, 2010
Hardest individual move on all Nabisco wall. Harder than crux on Buterballs
From: San Francisco
Mar 12, 2010
The crux (first 15+ feet off the belay) was hard, but it is possible to set some good gear up high off the belay stance. Placing gear after that is a challenge until you get to a 5.10 roof with a good finger lock rest, then more 5.10 climbing to the top.
Probably easier on TR when you don't have to fiddle with gear.
The crux left me hanging more times than I'd like to admit :(
|By Rob Dillon|
From: '81 Sunrader
Mar 14, 2010
"Probably easier on TR when you don't have to fiddle with gear"