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Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
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Buttercup 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Timmy Fairfield
Season: Winter
Page Views: 311
Submitted By: WAGbag on Jan 17, 2011
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Description 

This looks like a terrible squeezed route until you climb it in which case it becomes a pretty good squeezed route. The climbing is more independent of Little Caterpillar than it looks with the exception of two clipping holds and some of the foot holds become crimps. It stays sustained all the way through making it difficult to pinpoint a crux and makes for a rather enjoyable route and would be better had it been a more independent line. Begin with a right hand in the large depression and a left just at the top. Use the foot-holds for Little Caterpillar as crimps and make a big move up and left to a crimp/pinch. Continue the obvious sequence of terrible crimps and worse feet until you find yourself trying to get to the last bolt. Here is where you can stay left and make a big move to a shallow 2-finger then rock over to a right for the clip, or stay slightly right and make some off-balance deadpoints to more terrible holds.

Timy originally graded this 12d but reconsidered and now thinks 13a.


Location 

Black hangers starting at the large depression between Masta Ganj and Little Caterpillar.


Protection 

3 or 4 bolts. Recommend pre-clipping the first bolt.



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