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Bridge Buttress
Routes Sorted
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A Touch of Tango T 
Angel's Arete T,TR 
Are You An Idiot? T 
Are You Experienced? T 
Blunder and Frightening T,TR 
Butterbeans T 
Chockstone T,TR 
Dogfight T 
Dresden Corner T 
Easily Flakey T,TR 
Englishman's Crack T 
Gag Reflex T 
Handsome and Well-Hung T 
High Times T 
Horton's Tree T 
International Incident T 
Jaws T,TR 
Labor Day T 
Layback T 
Let the Wind Blow S 
Let's Get Physical T 
Marionette T,TR 
Mayfly T 
Mean Old Mr. Gravity S 
Mega Magic S 
Monkey See, Monkey Do T,TR 
Penalty Situation T,TR 
Raptured T 
Strategem, The S 
Strech Armstrong (a.k.a. Ruptured) S 
Team Machine S 
Tree Route, The T,TR 
Underfling T 
Zag T,TR 

Butterbeans 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Begoon, Artz '83
Page Views: 1,803
Submitted By: Brian Adzima on Apr 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Butterbeans (5.10a).

Description 

The connoisseurs offwidth. Steep but and strenous, but you don't have to sacifice your skin.


Location 

Past the trash compactor but before the monkey face


Protection 

Up to a #4 BD for the bulk of the climb. Might need a bigger cam if you are afraid you'll blow the easier top part.



Comments on Butterbeans Add Comment
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 9, 2007

Bring a spider wand, big pro, and your courage!
Big Cracks need love too!

By DaveB
Jun 27, 2007

Although known as an off-width, a few hand-jams, several face holds, and stenuous layback (crux) puts you into the large upper slot where the route backs-off considerably. No PURE off-width technique really necessary on this one. (Save the arm-bars and body-jams for another time....)