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10 - The Cookie Cliff
Routes Sorted
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Aftershock T,TR 
America's Cup T 
Anathema T 
Beverly's Tower T 
Butterballs T 
Butterfingers T 
Catchy T 
Catchy Corner T 
Chicken Delight TR 
Cleft, The T 
Cookie Left Side T 
Cookie Monster S 
Cookie-Center, The T 
Cookie-Right, The T 
Crack-a-Go-Go T 
Dynamite Crack 
Elevator Shaft, The T 
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Enigma, The T 
Hardd T 
Jardine's Hand T 
Meat Grinder T 
Outer Limits T 
Pringles S 
Red Zinger T 
Renegade, The T 
Stigma, The T 
Twilight Zone T 
Twinkie T 
Vendetta T 
Waverly Wafer T 
Wheat Thin T 

Butterballs 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Henry Barber, May 1973
Page Views: 17,472
Submitted By: caughtinside on Mar 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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Nearing the end of Butterballs

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Splitter fingers straight up the center of the Nabisco wall. Vertical on strenuous fingerlocks, with the occasional diorite bump barely protruding for feet. Sustained and classic. Think about Bachar or Croft soloing this thing when you're on it.

Location 

On the Nabisco Wall, just left of Wheat Thin. Access it by Waverly Wafer or Beverly's Tower.

Protection 

Both the bottom belay and the top belay are bolted, all thin to 1" gear in between. Remember this was originally led on all nuts!


Photos of Butterballs Slideshow Add Photo
Henry Barber on the FFA of Butterballs (5.11c), Yo...
Henry Barber on the FFA of Butterballs (5.11c), Yo...
Mark Wilford on Butterballs.
Mark Wilford on Butterballs.
Butterballs, one of the best finger cracks in the ...
Butterballs, one of the best finger cracks in the ...
totally *****
totally *****
Security
Security
looking stylish on butterballs
looking stylish on butterballs
The classic finger crack:  Butterballs
The classic finger crack: Butterballs
Butterballs is very sustained and splitter the who...
Butterballs is very sustained and splitter the who...
Megan on Butterballs.  Photo by Marc Horan.
Megan on Butterballs. Photo by Marc Horan.
Butterballs!
Butterballs!

Comments on Butterballs Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 16, 2015
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
May 17, 2007

If this pitch is not 4-stars, then I don't know what is.
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Oct 22, 2008

I would disagree with the original poster's gear beta. I took this:

2 blue TCU (or .3 camalot/yellow C3)
3 .4 camalots
3 .5 camalots
1 .75 camalot

That does a perfect job of stiching it up (if you can hang on long enough to place it!).
By Brad G
From: Yosemite and else where
Nov 5, 2008

The upper half of this route will feel hard if you have thin fingers. This is defintally one of the best finger cracks in the Valley.
By BenL
Jan 27, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

for those with small fingers, I think it is a good idea to tape up more than usually, it's much easier if your finger are fairly big!
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 27, 2009

Taping for "size" is beyond ghey.
By BenL
Feb 6, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

ok. didn't know that. good you told me. thanks for the laugh.
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Jan 14, 2010

just a great finger crack
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Jan 31, 2011

spelling gay 'ghey' is really gay
By Muscrat
Administrator
Jan 21, 2015

Saying that spelling gay 'ghey' is really gay is really really ghey.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 13, 2015

super gay. not that there's anything wrong with that...

seriously though, i'm not sure what the ethical problem is with taping for size when we wear rock shoes with sticky rubber designed to help us stick our toes into tiny cracks like this one.
By Aaron Livingston
From: Moab, UT
Jul 11, 2015

^ last I checked i can't tape for size when my fingers barely fit in a .3 c4 crack up to my cuticles, .5's are pretty perfect and you don't see most people with big fingers like me taping up to make .75's locker. Don't get fixated on making the crack fit the grade, if the size is hard then it is hard and you should just practice it. Chances are the hardest it becomes is 2 MAYBE 3 letter grades harder if your fingers are small for the crack. Remember, tape is aid ;D
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jul 16, 2015

In 1979 John Bachar climbed this ropeless
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