Stick clipping the first bolt is recommended. Start on the orange arete and work your way up to a large hold on the arete. From here, find a way to get yourself up to the point where the arete bulges out, looking for a good hold out right to make the next clip (crux). From here, head up and to the left side of the arete to reach a crack system and a good stance. The climbing from this point on is probably 5.10d. Continue up the crack system and follow the holds out right to reach a flake under the roof. Undercling your way out right to the edge of the arete to a great stance. Climb straight up the arete and traverse back left on to the face to pass the last bolt and up to the anchors.
This route begins on the arete to the left of the start for Chunky Monkey, 5.12b. From M.E.N.S.A, continue along the cliff,away from the Brain until you reach an arete.
7 bolts, shuts.
|By Mark Paulson|
Mar 18, 2014
Unfortunately, the move at the first bolt probably goes at about V5. I onsighted Disturbance and MENSA, but got shut down on this and ended up yarding on the draw. The rest of the route is great. I guess they averaged the hard move with the 11a remainder to get 11c/d.