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Stick clipping the first bolt is recommended. Start on the orange arete and work your way up to a large hold on the arete. From here, find a way to get yourself up to the point where the arete bulges out, looking for a good hold out right to make the next clip (crux). From here, head up and to the left side of the arete to reach a crack system and a good stance. The climbing from this point on is probably 5.10d. Continue up the crack system and follow the holds out right to reach a flake under the roof. Undercling your way out right to the edge of the arete to a great stance. Climb straight up the arete and traverse back left on to the face to pass the last bolt and up to the anchors.
This route begins on the arete to the left of the start for Chunky Monkey, 5.12b. From M.E.N.S.A, continue along the cliff,away from the Brain until you reach an arete.
7 bolts, shuts.
By Mark Paulson
Mar 18, 2014
The move at the first bolt felt significantly harder to me than anything on MENSA or Disturbance.
By Brad Leneis
Nov 10, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
As mentioned in the guidebook, grabbing the first draw and yarding through slick V5/V6 crux makes this a nice, non-tweaky 5.11a. A long draw is nice on the bolt above the roof.