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 ADVANCED
Butt Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Center Face S,TR 
Left Face TR 

Center Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,080
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Jan 31, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Risley above crux. Climb starts just right and go...

Description 

Center Face sits on the south facing slabby wall and starts at the bottom, center section of rock, just left of a tree. Thin face moves up and right gain you to steeper rock where there is one bolt. Move up and right past bolt to easier climbing to the top. Fun climbing for the moderate level climber and variations to the left can increase the difficulty by a grade or so.


Protection 

Although this south face would make excellent moderate leads, there is only one bolt midway up. If you are tempted to lead this, be careful as this bolt is a teaser and you may find yourself quickly high off the ground, with no gear, and a few scary down climbing moves to get off. Believe me... Bring long slings to set up a proper toprope.



Photos of Center Face Slideshow Add Photo
Risley just above crux at the only bolt on climb.
Risley just above crux at the only bolt on climb.
Looking down on Risley on variation just left of Center Face.
Looking down on Risley on variation just left of C...
Comments on Center Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Risley
Feb 4, 2004

As mentioned above, It would be a very tricky climb to the first bolt. Otherwise, this was a fun climb but, not too difficult. It is at least one grade harder to the left, basically sraight up the center. A very fingery and thin climb which entailed more technical foot work as the the finger holds proved more crucial to balance than for pulling your self up. Climbed this route a few times, was far smoother on second ascent.

By Lukasz Fidkowski
Jul 12, 2004

From the ground it looked like getting to the bolt would be easy, but it was definitely more scary higher up, especially for a beginner like me. I made it to the bolt only because I couldn't downclimb on the slab. On the other hand, the route felt much easier on toprope. The chimney is the safer way to get to the top to set up an anchor.

By kevin deweese
From: Oakland, Ca
Mar 4, 2007

looks a lot easier from the base of the route. tried to freesolo it with a pack on and my aproach shoes. Scariest 20 minutes of my life.

By Brian Snider
From: NorCal
Jul 26, 2010

Great route for beginners to learn foot work and smearing also a fun climb for a novice with lots of variations to test your friction moves. Chimney to the top is the safest but may be tough for a large climber as it is a tight squeeze. Long slings 50'+ to build an anchor off the boulders. Rap from tree or bushes.