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 ADVANCED
Lover's Leap on Beaver Brook
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
ABBA T,TR 
BB Brain S 
BB Gun S 
BB King S 
Bed And Breakfast T 
Black And Blue S 
Butt Over Buttress TR 
Red Ryder 
Unsorted Routes:

Butt Over Buttress 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Deb Thompson
Page Views: 277
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jun 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Deb gets into the crux sequence.

Description 

This is a short climb that sort of begs to be climbed. It pulls a tiny overlap with interesting moves that make it worth the dabble.

Move up to an obvious jug ~10 feet up. Some nice footwork, an insecure lieback, and a chip get past the bulge. Then, you get over your feet as the holds seem licheny. Continue up on easier terrain until you get to the small roof above. Traverse left to the anchors for Bed and Breakfast.

This may be a bit furry, since it was cleaned with bare hands and a nut tool. Update, it's been cleaned gentle with a wire brush, now.

If you set a TR above the roof, you could continue above.


Location 

This ascends the concavity ~perhaps 20 feet right of Bed and Breakfast.


Protection 

A TR with swing potential off the anchors for Bed and Breakfast with a red Alien directional will keep you off the deck. You might be tempted to put a couple cams in the angling crack to start, but it'll be a while until you can get anything in above that. It would be a headpoint at best.



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