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Butt Luscious 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Alber, 1998
Page Views: 2,576
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 22, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Just after the crux reach....

Seasonal Raptor Closure - Lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb starts on the upper tier of the Clock Tower, a bit left of the mid point on the crag. A single hard pull (5.11c) up a blankish start leads to a good ledge and a very long reach to a decent horn, a very height-dependent move, and the crux at 5.11+ (but look at the comments). Haul up over the horn to great 5.11 face climbing on excellent edges and deep incut flakes.

It is a great climb worth all three stars for the climbing moves, continuity, and quality of the stone.

Protection 

QDs only. 8-10 QDs and something for the two bolt anchor at the top.


Photos of Butt Luscious Slideshow Add Photo
Fun upper part... steep enough to be interesting b...
Fun upper part... steep enough to be interesting b...

Comments on Butt Luscious Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 27, 2015
By Anonymous Coward
May 16, 2002

I couldn't detect any chipped holds and the bolts are some of the better spaced at the Sport Park. I'm tall so the reach was easy, so in my book it is 11c and gets *** Cory
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 6, 2002

I am not so tall at 5'9"... But this isn't even height dependent. This is a good 11d route for someone of my size, but the people that are 5'2" aren't going to be doing the same move as those over 6', not that they usually can on reachy routes. I don't think this was a chipped route, and was a fairly interesting and burney route for me.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 14, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I'm going to take a LOT of heat for this, but it is my honest opinion. This climb is VERY severely overgraded. It's fun but very overgraded. Maybe something broke off and left better holds, maybe it just suited my style, maybe I had the best day of my climbing career, but 5.12a/b should not be a cake walk for me - it should be on par with my most desperate on-sights ever. It wasn't. I'd put it on par with a soft 5.11 or hard 5.10. That said, big moves to big holds. I have very long arms and big shoulders. It you are 6' (I'm 5'10" with a +6" ape index) this should go well.

Really fun move. Please tell me that the opening undercling was real?!?!? It looked and felt drilled to me!

I honestly thought it was 5.10d. I thought about putting 11a/b, because that would stir the pot too much, but my honest opinion is my honest opinion and I don't want to mince that too much.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 16, 2003

TB - yhe ape index does help to soften the move. I think the 5.12 rating was noted in Rolofson's guide, and I used that as a reference. Personally, I don't think the move is 5.10. Mid to upper 11 probably fits.
By non
Aug 26, 2007

Okay...the fragile ego downgraders that frequent this site need to remember that we are talking about moderate routes (11+ through 12-). Does Tony B and his other cast of middle-aged weaklings need to be reminded that there is nothing cutting edge about this grade range? What is their motive to downgrade? To remind the gym rat with six months experience that they haven't scratched the surface of advanced climbing? If you find yourself downgrading 12- routes, you probably need to take up another sport, because you just don't matter anymore!
By Mark Ferguson
May 27, 2008

NON - since when is 11+/12- moderate climbing? We must all not be the "advanced climber" that you are. Based on the attitude here, I would say you are climbing for the wrong reasons. Cutting edge grade range? Looks like you are the one with the ego here. If you are such a cutting edge grade chaser, then why are you making a post on a route at the Sport Park? Attitudes like yours are what I despise about many Boulder area climbers who think that they are just so cool. It is people like you that don't matter anymore.
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 4, 2008
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

I didn't like this climb much, I thought the opening move was hard, and would be significantly harder for normal size (reach) people. The rest was pretty much easier, but not gimmee. Good line, not so great climbing.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jul 13, 2011

The climb is overrated. The Sport Park is overrated. Hell, Boulder Canyon itself is almost always consistently overrated.

And?

And if an area's grades are habitually, consistently soft (or sandbagged, for that matter) AT WHATEVER THE GRADE, then it falls to the community to make a stand and address that, inject some objectivity, as best as that can be acomplished.

So bravo down- and up-graders. As I see it, that's the whole damn point of this Mountain Project.
By Mark Rolofson
6 days ago
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Wow. What a huge amount of bullshit in the comment section & the grades. First, having done this route many times (& I am tall), this route feels like .11d at the 3rd bolt. I rated it .12a/b after watching numerous shorter climbers on the route. Most were stumped, a few suceeded with much more technical beta than my lunge move. Perhaps .11d/12a is a better rating. That said, it is a classic route for Boulder Canyon. There are 8 protection bolts.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
6 days ago

Consensus is 5.11c for BL, but the numbers are still all over the charts. How does 5.11+ work for consensus?
By Mark Rolofson
2 days ago
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Unfortunately this website doesn't have the .11d/12a option. For anybody 5 foot 7 inches or shorter this route is easily .12a or b. It is height dependent route. That said for me the crux is more powerful than any section on Eleanor at Easter Rock (.11d) & I think its as hard or harder than Golden Rose (a very soft .12a). I have climbed at the Clock Tower a few times every year since 1998, when I flashed this route. I have watched many people on it & have never heard anyone call this climb .11c or easier. I climb Go Dog Go (Butt Luscious with its .12b direct finish) every year. Even after having the crux of Butt Luscious wired it still feels like .11d & there a still .11 moves above the 4th bolt. MP is a great place to downrate climbs into absurdity. Tony Bubb's .10d rating it just plain silly along with anyone rating it .11b. So .11d/12a is my vote. But I'll stick with .12a on MP unless the site administrators fix the problem.


By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
2 days ago

Harder than "Higher Calling" at Empire seems a bit of stretch.
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