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Butler Corridor

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Dysecdysis T 
I Saw Daddy Kissing Santa S 
Oh Frenchie Wee Wee Gee In September S 
Secret of Mother Butler (aka Appetite for Destruction), The T 
Spot Craft T 
Viper, The T 
Washed Up Never Was Beens T 

Butler Corridor  


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Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Nov 18, 2003
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Face on the left has a couple of bolted routes on ...

Description 

This north - south running clandestine corridor, filled with huge nolina plants, is formed by Roundup Rock on the east and a nameless crag on the west. The nameless crag is east of Thrutcher Dome. Large boulders on the south and north ends obfuscate the view into the corridor. There are several excellent crack climbs that make the circuitous approach into the corridor worth the time involved.

This area is also described as the Snake Pit (pg. 307) in Randy's '92 guidebook.

Getting There 

One approach is to enter the aptly named Prickly Pear Canyon flanked by Thrutcher Dome on the east and the nameless crag on the west. Walk a few hundred feet north towards the base of a cactus covered hill. At the base of the hill are some large boulders on your left and a very narrow chimney / corridor on your right that leads into Butler Corridor.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.3 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Butler Corridor:
Oh Frenchie Wee Wee Gee In September   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
I Saw Daddy Kissing Santa   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Butler Corridor

Featured Route For Butler Corridor
Approaching the top during a twilight ascent. Phot...

The Viper 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Butler Corridor
This route is on the west side about 25' south of "The Secret of Mother Butler." A very large nolina is at the base of the route. Climb double cracks for about 30' and then veer left over two bulges (cruxes) before making committing moves back right near the top to the rappel station. Nice climb with varied movement (3 out of 5 stars)....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Local Information for Butler Corridor
Photos of Butler Corridor Slideshow Add Photo
Out past the Hook and Ladder Area is the Eiffel To...
BETA PHOTO: Out past the Hook and Ladder Area is the Eiffel To...

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By Randy
May 5, 2011
The approach given for Butler Corridor above is not the best alternative (meaning you really don't want to go that way).

If you are trying to reach routes in the main Corridor (ie: Secret of Mother Butler, Viper, etc.), it is best to continue east in the wash past the Red Obelisk until you can see the southern side of the Corridor (Eiffel Tower and Kokopelli Wall) continue east until you can head well around the eastern side of these formations and then back west and up to the northern side. Enter through the northern side of the Corridor.

For approaching Eiffel Tower, The best approach for the Eiffel Tower is to hike to the base of the southern entrance to Butler Corridor.

To reach the southern end of Butler Corridor, from the vicinity of the Red Obelisk, continue east for 25 yards. Now either:
(1) Turn left and take Prickly Pear Canyon north for about 20 yards, until you can cut right (east) over fairly level ground until you drop into a wash emanating from the Butler Corridor; or
(2) Continue east from the Red Obelisk in the main wash for another 100+ yards, and until you can circle around low rocks on your left and reach the southern entrance from the southeast.

Once below the southern entrance to the Butler Corridor, there is much vegetation and cacti. Stay to the far right of the gully, and scramble up boulders, staying on the right until you are just in the Butler Corridor. Once in the corridor, head left up to the base of the Eiffel Tower.