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Butchwax
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2 from 4 votes
Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Chris Henze, Kevin Carmichael, & Tejal Parikh (1990) |
Page Views: | 681 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Hendrixson on Dec 1, 2014 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Delicately climb a less-than-vertical face using small edges and nubs past two bolts. When the angle steepens pull through a short powerful crux on pockets and edges to obtain a rest at a platform. Two short sections of face and a second platform lead to the chains.
Butchwax is a pleasant enough romp on interesting features but ultimately too short and inconsistent to leave a lasting impression. Depending on your body type and climbing strengths the route may feel a bit soft for the established grade.
Butchwax is a pleasant enough romp on interesting features but ultimately too short and inconsistent to leave a lasting impression. Depending on your body type and climbing strengths the route may feel a bit soft for the established grade.
Location
Butchwax is located on the third pinnacle from the west. Butchwax climbs the east face while Flat Top climbs the south.
Protection
6 bolts to chain anchors. The bolts are stamped with the initials 'BWM'. Since the anchors are recessed, long slings and rappelling are recommended.
While Squeezing The Lemmon II suggests a light rack, I believe this is a fully bolted sport climb. A small cam or nut could be placed between bolts 5 and 6 but it would not serve much purpose.
While Squeezing The Lemmon II suggests a light rack, I believe this is a fully bolted sport climb. A small cam or nut could be placed between bolts 5 and 6 but it would not serve much purpose.
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