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David's Castle Wall
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Rocky's Roof 
Between the Betwix 
Butcher of Baghdad 
Castle Corner 
Caterpillar 
Chim-Chimney 
Electra 
Energy Czar 
Fourplay 
Golden Overhang 
Golden Shower 
Handle With Care 
Instant Karma 
Instant Karma Direct 
Pink Flamingo 
Playing In The Lemonade 
Psychotic Reaction 
Rediscovery 
Respirator 
Sadistic Rhythm 
Temporary Tradition 
Two Step 
What Else Is There To Do? 

Butcher of Baghdad 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Diab Rabie
Season: Summer (Afternoon) Winter (Morning)
Page Views: 457
Submitted By: Eduardo Ramirez on Sep 18, 2011
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Cleaned up and fun. - butcher of baghdad

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Description 

'The Butcher' rarely sees any repeats because of it's sustained, sharp crimp, face climbing style.

Start on 'Energy Czar'. Trend up and right after the third bolt. Two options here.

(5.12)- Staying right of the bolt line was the original intention of this reachy crimp option.

(5.11+)- Staying slightly cliff left of the bolted line yields a technical, crimpy, but less reachy alternative to the (5.12) variation.

Originally this route shared an anchor with INSTANT KARMA DIRECT(5.10d) but this anchor is in need of some repair. Climb up to the ENERGY CZAR(5.10c) anchor located on the big ledge.


Location 

This route starts on the same line as 'Energy Czar' but veers right at the third bolt.

Right of 'Caterpillar'.

Left of 'Instant Karma Direct'.


Protection 


Six bolts to a two bolt anchor shared with 'Instant Karma Direct' and 'Karma'.



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By Drew Hayes
From: Charlotte, NC
Apr 24, 2012

I've always wondered about this route, I think I'm going to give it a shot next time I'm out there.

By Dave Frickin Coleman
From: West Columbia, SC
Nov 12, 2012

i think the anchors for this route should be moved down below the huge ledge because when you rapell down to clean it tears the rope up really bad, the rock up there is really sharp, and if you ever wanted to top rope it you would want an extremely long anchor system.

By Eduardo Ramirez
From: Columbia, SC
Jan 30, 2013

This route's original anchor was around the corner halfway up the wall right before the Energy Czar ledge (halfway up Instant Karma Direct). Because this anchor is in bad shape and in need of replacement, it is vetoed for the Energy Czar anchor for 'Butcher', and 'Karma' routes.

Keep your anchor short(two opposing quickdraws...with lockers for all you skeptics) and the rope drag won't be as bad.

When you rappel the rope doesn't move on the rock so it shouldn't tear up the rope when you are cleaning... unless you are being lowered on the rings in which case is seen, by some, as bad practice due to the wear on the rings.

If anything the anchors should be moved to the top of the cliff to extend the routes... just my opinion.

By Mike Nevko
From: Currently Charlotte
Mar 13, 2014

I really think this is a underrated route for Crowders. Looks like the harder (right side of bolts) line has flaked out and disintegrated over the years, but the left side line is still very good. Big moves to to holds that are better than you think. Until you get to the the LARGE Creaky Flake (5th to 6th bolt). Remember pull down not out. The traversing is fun too. Thanks to Diabe for this one.