Butcher Knife 

We did Butcher Knife late in Nov 2008. There was snow all around and a blue 45 degree sky. We did the route with two parties and with both leaders climbing at the same time. I'd never done anything like that before. It did make for a good times though and probably more heckling than climbing. I do think it caused me to get a bit off route on the third pitch.

After passing two manky 1/4" bolts on 5.9+ slab my head was not doing so well. I kept heading strait up to a little roof where I sunk a #1 BD and a yellow Metolius. I pulled the roof after being assured that that I was going the right way, climbing to where, I had no idea. I told Jared (the other leader)to hang back till I was good.

Each move I made got me further and further into the blank wall. Not being able to repeat the dicey slab moves, I had to keep moving up. After a bit I saw a bolt 15 feet to my right. I knew I was off route, and I was looking at a 50'er. As the lyrics of Don McLean's American Pie raced through my mind, all I could think was "PLEASE GOD! Don't let me fall! but, if I do, it couldn't be a better place, It was beautiful out and I had two of my best friends there to watch". I was all in.

Once I hit a seem, and as soon as I felt my right ring finger sink to my first knuckle, I quickly moved my finger and slammed in a green BD C3. I sprinted to the belay hooting and hollering all the way, thankful that I was able to keep my head and that didn't fall.

I watched as Jared, the other leader follow where I had just been. Right before the green C3, his foot slipped which caused him to grab my rope and let out a few explicits. He had not clipped in yet. Upon reaching the belay he said that I had just cauterized my mangina.WHOOT!! WOOT!! I'd been waiting for those words for years.

After finishing the forth pitch, we rapped to the starting anchors of the Zion Curtain and blitzed that as well. We all got down just before dark. I wouldn't do it any other way, It was an awesome day, two classics on a short sunny winter day. Next time I will just stay on route.

If you choose to free the first tension traverse of Arm & Hammer, then you'll need to climb 11c to get to Butcher Knife.

Thanks for the write up!

Edit: Pitch 4 is usually done in 2 pitches. This route offers sustained and varied climbing...a forgotten classic.

This is the hardmans 5.10d slab. Do all the fin and thumb routes then hike up here for more of an alpine feel to mixed climbing with a nice run out 5.10d slab crux.

Went up yesterday and did this and other routes. Last visit to Butcher knife was 1986 when it was in better shape. Unfortunately this wonderful route has significant gear deterioration - ancient bolts and no piton left. Great climbing but forgotten and probably a bit dangerous now until it gets fixed.