View of all but the bottom-most section of But for...
But for a Silver Bullet is a new trad route located to the left of Tom Thumb, and shares a beginning with The Lone Ranger. This is a good beginner trad climb. Approximately 75 feet long. Start slightly to the right of the slot that becomes Funhouse Chimney, and move up and right to a ledge. Move right to a large dihedral and crack located on a corner buttress. Opportunities for placing good protection abound in this crack. Lieback up the crack for about 20 feet before reaching a solid ledge big enough for both feet (same beginning as The Lone Ranger). Once atop the buttress, move up and left staying in the crack system on the left that will take you all the way to the anchor hooks.
All trad. Good protection all the way. Small to medium cams and assorted small to medium stoppers. One #4 Camalot to protect the top move to the lowering hooks if desired. Two-bolt anchor with lowering hooks.
The sport route to the right of the Lone Ranger/Silver Bullet is no more. The flake with the first 2 or 3 bolts fell off, so now the first bolt is 30' up. The damaged route finishes at the Silver Bullet anchors.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Aug 11, 2010
FYI, that jug/chockstone just above the ledge ~25' up is loose. It shifts when you stand on it.
Just climbed it, I'm a new trad leader. Very fun, good variety of places for cams and nuts. Watch out though, there are plenty of chunks up there that might break free and also be a bad place for pro.
As for the anchors, there two new bolts at the top, along with two old ones. They work fine for rap, they are not well oriented to the face for lowering though, and rope drag would be hard on your rope.
Bottom line, there are permanent anchors at the top, and it's a fun route!!! Probably best to walk off the back.
Side note after going up this three times - the anchors aren't visible from the ground. You'll see them when you get 2/3 of the way up. They aren't in a good orientation for lowering or rap. Also, to bring up your second you might want to leave a piece to direct the rope because the anchor is off to the side (climber's left).
I don't think the gear opportunities are that stellar, not the best place to learn to place gear. I probably won't climb it again unless I have a good reason....