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 ADVANCED
The Needle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bustin' Move S 
Damage Done, The S,TR 
Descent Route T,TR 
Momentary Lapse of Ethics S,TR 
Needle TR wall aka Uphill Slab TR 
North Lieback T 
South Face T 
Suburban Hangover S 
Temple of the Dog S 

Bustin' Move 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Laurence Stuemke, 1990
Page Views: 327
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Aug 25, 2009

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Description 

Start up easy ground to a high first bolt. Clip and make some cool moves trending leftwards to the second and third bolts. At the third bolt, commit to the crux a section of cool sidepulls and heelhooks with some long reaches. Make a committing move to reach the fourth bolt and a good rest. If working the route a long draw might be nice here so you can clip earlier. Rest up, reach up and clip the 5th bolt, and commit to one more thin crimpy section. Continue up on very easy ground to the anchors placed on nearly flat ground.

This was my favorite of the sport routes on the Needle, although we didn't try "Temple of the Dog."


Location 

This is the rightmost of the bolted lines on The Needle, it is the furthest line uphill.


Protection 

5 bolts to an awkwardly placed rap anchor. Watch out for rope drag while lowering (even with draws in place), and cleaning while on rappel is a major PITA.



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