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Buster Brown 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson 6/2005
Season: Shade until 11am or so in summer.
Page Views: 1,254
Submitted By: SteveZ on Jul 29, 2012
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Cool climb.
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Description 

There is clean, solid rock all the way on this one. Buster Brown is an elegant technical route.

Moderate climbing starts up a fun tight hands crack, over a pillar, and through a small roof. From the jugs above the roof begin the hard climbing by breaking hard right to a left-angling flake/dike and follow it to another small rooflet with underclings. From here, gain a finger crack and follow it to a large flake and jugs out left. Finish with easy climbing to the anchor. This is a pretty sustained route with no distinct crux.


Location 

This route begins up a tight hands crack to the right of Dude's Jam Crack. The top half of the route has a distinct brown streak.


Protection 

12 bolts to a two bolt anchor.



Photos of Buster Brown Slideshow Add Photo
Nice crack climbing.
Nice crack climbing.
A great 13 to climb or try to climb.
A great 13 to climb or try to climb.
Comments on Buster Brown Add Comment
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By SteveZ
From: Arvada, CO
Jul 29, 2012

Sorry, forgot to snap a picture of this one :-/. In my opinion this is the best looking and climbing route on the wall!

By Mark Rolofson
Sep 25, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

For me, this is the hardest climb on the crag. It took me a lot of tries to make the first redpoint ascent in June 2005. I returned in 2011 to repeat the route, & it took me 9 tries over 5 days to repeat it. I have a much easier time repeating "Major Dude", "Brass Monkey", or "Double Dominatrix", which I have done many times. "Buster Brown" has some small footholds and a tiny crux edge handhold. There are some precision moves on this sustained, vertical face. It is a forearm endurance route with technical climbing. The hard climbing starts with a tricky traverse, followed by a beautiful dike. A thin crux leads to an underclimg. The second crux ascends a discontinuous finger crack. The final redpoint crux is just having enough forearm strength left to make the last thin face moves and reach the top of the juggy flake. One of my favorite vertical face routes.