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Buster Brown 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rick Cashner, Mike Corbett, 1979.
Page Views: 1,432
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Last moves on Buster Brown, end of the overhanging...

Description 

Climb "Blockbuster to the roof, step left and climb an overhanging fist crack.


Protection 

Pro to 3.5".



Photos of Buster Brown Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff at the base, 10a thin hands start featured.
Jeff at the base, 10a thin hands start featured.
It climbs much better than it looks....
It climbs much better than it looks....
Comments on Buster Brown Add Comment
Show which comments
By 426
Mar 19, 2007

Solid, Yose style fisticuffs. Get ready for a donnybrook if yer fists aren't solid...have seen several whippers at the slight bulge.

By Joe Dawson
Jul 7, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Gear Beta: If you want to stitch the top of the climb up, save a 1, 2, 3, 3.5, and 4 Camalot. I would go heavy on the big gear, 3s and 4s because there are some spots on the lower and middle parts of the route that protect best with a 3 and a 4. You could get away with other stuff, but it does not sound (tap) as good. Decent route. The top is the good part.

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Sep 28, 2010

Solid .10b, crux at the top feels a bit harder than Fisticuffs. Face holds appear as soon as the crack gets super hard.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jul 30, 2011

This climb would be a good warmup for Blockbuster to the right.

By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Sep 30, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Every bit as good as Space Truckin' as far as I am concerned. Climbs much better than it looks in the middle, and the top is every bit as good as it looks. Crux for me was the sequence off of the pillar, green and red camalot size, to gain the hand/fist crack above.

Again, if Space Truckin' is getting railed like a sexy grandma, go visit its ugly sister up the hill that climbs just as well, and is a solid notch up in difficulty.

By jplaut
Sep 16, 2013

Definitely legit offwidth near the top for those with smaller hands. I couldn't get good fists near the end so it definitely felt harder than 10b to me. Very fun, though.