Busload is the classic hard testpiece at Sinks Canyon, as it is relatively long and sustained compared to its peers. The route follows a nearly flawless swath of orange stone, yet is marred slightly by the slimy flake at mid-height. Despite its relative continuity, this is certainly a line for the boulderer, with all of the business coming before the fourth bolt.
The route begins with a vicious boulder problem (that can be bypassed with an enormous reach), capped with a huge dyno to reach the second bolt. A few easy cranks lead to a shallow mono, an awkward lieback, a big span, and finally the redpoint crux: a desperate windmill stab to a three-finger pocket at the fourth bolt. After the first decent shake on the route, move right to the "Trouty" flake, then up and back left, making athletic reaches between hero jugs. A medium-sized crimp at the 5th bolt and a series of two-finger pockets above the 6th provide something to worry about while cruising the steller upper panel.
Left side of the cave, between The Throne and Sister Ray.
The first of three successive two-finger pockets. ...
Moving past the greasy flake. Photo by Sam Perkin...
On the send, just below the crimp move. Photo by ...
Just below the chains. Photo by Sam Perkins