Business as Usual
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A true Mt. Lemmon classic! Unquestionable rock, adequate protection, and thought-provoking climbing. A textbook example of archetypal Mt. Lemmon traditionally protected weakness climbing. The 22-year-old drilled pin has been replaced with a bolt. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 3 out of 3 stars.)
Pitch 1 – Begin in a shallow left-facing corner (thoughtful protection) that turns into a prominent right-leaning weakness. Look for a bolt approximately 30 feet up. Ascend this sweeping, right-leaning crack system till a bolted belay is encountered at a stance. 5.10+, pro to 3½”, with recommended doubles of cams in the ½” to 3” range, 135 feet.
Pitch 2 – Step left from the belay, move up approximately 10 feet, then a good 1½” placement protects a short face traverse right to the correct location under the roof. This roof can be turned in a variety of places, and it may take a few false starts to find the sequence indicated by the rating. This second pitch does not get done nearly as often as the stunning first pitch. 5.10+, pro to 3", 35 feet.
Variation - Performance Anxiety 5.11 *
This short, variant finish turns the Trollkinder roof at its widest point. Two fixed stoppers indicate the line. Ten feet of exposed, athletic climbing leads to an easy finish. Pro to 3”, 30 feet. (JS, JSh)
Pro to 3.5", with recommended doubles in the .5" to 3" range.
See Squeezing the Lemmon.
|Comments on Business as Usual
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
May 30, 2011
Pretty spicy in this day of bolts every 6 feet. Glad that this wasn't anywhere near my limit as I would have been really scared. I might be tempted to give this a pg 13. I found stoppers to be pretty useful.
From: Tucson, Az
Apr 13, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
If you belay up near the cactus, a 70m will get you lowered off the first pitch, but tie a knot in the end. If your rope is even a few feet short, the belayer will have to climb up the route a bit to get the climber to a stance.