|Wall That Dreams Are Made Of
Fun, solid hand crack. Depending on your hand size, the crux could be the bouldery start, the wide funkiness in the middle, or the thin hands at the top. Hexes work great on this route and lighten your load-I used my#3,3.5,and #4 camalots in the first 20 feet and wished I had more cowbell all the way home.
Follow Eric Horst's book. You're gonna get lost anyway.
From #1 camalot up, big hexes, extras in wide sizes handy.
BETA PHOTO: Bushwhack Crack, Old Rag, Virginia, April 2008
BETA PHOTO: Bushwack crack
Sustained even after pulling out of the roof.
Bushwhack Crack start.
Even after the crux roof, the line remains steep a...
|By C Runyan|
Apr 28, 2008
Great jam crack. My favorite route at Old Rag -- perfect hands and fists nearly all of the way (as for wide gear, I used two #3s and one #4). The crux is definitely the hike in (well worth it, though).
|By Ryan Fischer|
Dec 30, 2008
I'm definitely bringing tape next time. Super burly and ultra classic line.
From: Pinewood Springs
Jul 25, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It was Alex Badart that told me Cal Swoager, or Mike Artz did a onsight solo (1980's).
|By Rafael Rovirosa|
From: Las Cruces, NM
Mar 31, 2012
Fun, steep, and stout. The belay is under the roof. There are some old fixed nuts with webbing going directly through the wires that are used to lower off.
|By K Baumgartner|
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
A fun thrash getting there and up the route.
I used two #3s, a #2, and two #1s among big gear.
There are several starts, so choose your adventure.
Crux for me was the roof. Great hand jams and finger goodness await once you pull onto the face.
As of 11 November, there were three fixed nuts with two pieces of webbing with two non locking opposed biners. I added two pieces (.3 and .4) to back up the anchor for TRing.
Nov 11, 2013
Incredible line - great hand jamming and nice face features. Crux for me was pulling the roof and I felt lucky to get to do moves like that at 10c!
I think I brought .5, .75, and doubles from #1 to #3. Ran out of hand and larger sizes up top but managed to place the smaller pieces. I would have appreciated another #2 and #3 and also a #4. Using a horizontal crack to the left of the line, we pre-placed a #1 in the end of the roof to protect the bouldery start without causing rope drag problems later.
As of 11/13 the anchor up top is three nuts with a few pieces of webbing, none of them particularly fresh-looking, slung directly through the rusty wires. Definitely bring small cams and nuts to back up the anchor!
This climb deserves a bolted anchor.