Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
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and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Bushwhack Crack is a very fine, beautiful jam crack on the right side of the Schoolroom wall. It is the obvious straight in splitter with several trees in it about 100' up. The first pitch is a 3-star pitch, too bad it is not longer!
P1) 5.8 Climb the thin hands crack, passing the crux right off the deck. Continue up, with the crack turning to fists near the belay. The first pitch ends at a set of chain anchors and a small foot ledge. Many people rap at this point (one rope), but the second pitch is also pretty good.
P2) 5.7 Continue up the crack through the trees, angling right until a crack starts going straight up. Climb this (low angle) to a thin traverse at a chicken head. Continue easily to the right with a tree with anchors.
Descent) Downclimb 10 - 15 feet to a set of chain anchors on the face. Rap 100' down to the deck.
Standard Rack - mostly pro for thin hands. Some pieces up to a #3 camalot size are useful too.
I am not as enthusiastic about this route, however it is a good moderate option in the canyon. The first 20 feet of the first pitch were a bit slippery and insecure for my liking. It felt harder than 5.8, but climb it and gain confidence!
I haven't climbed this but have also heard that it's hard and greasy. And that everyone loves it. Can't wait to try it out this summer!
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Mar 29, 2004 rating: 5.8-5b16VI-VS 4c
I thought this was an awfully easy 5.8 There is really only one 5.8 move to get established and one more in a bulge up higher, but otherwise it is just good easy 5.7 Not as hard as Movie Variation and only slightly harder than Schoolroom Direct. Not continuous enough to get 3 stars from me, but good fun.
Did both pitches the other day, and whereas the second pitch isn't as hard or as consistent, or even the same style, it makes the climb a better route. There are 2 lines after the chains. The first and, IMHO, the better line is the left line. Step left out of the trees and continue up as the crack starts angling right. At the end of the crack, scamper up the runout but easy slab to a rap station (slings on a flake). Rap down to Callitwhatyouplease. The other line, can be climbed as Peter said, or continue up the runout but easy face. Either way a better Bushwhack, then just the 1st pitch.
I climbed this for the first time two days ago. I agree with one of the previous posts: on the second pitch, the left crack is better than the right crack. The right crack is nothing special, and also thins out about 2/3rds of the way up to a shallow outward flaring crack that was difficult to pro and then to a runout. Not a good combination. Left crack is fun, easy climbing. It pinches out at the top and there is a short runout to the chains, so get a piece or two in as high as possible. I found that a tri-cam worked well.
A good friend of mine put those anchors in quite a few years ago because the old belay (which was a bunch of webbing around one of the trees) was killing the tree and about to rip out. We were up there last year after climbing some routes on that cliff and were rapping off the bushwack belay. We both agreed that the anchors should have been placed about 10 feet or so higher on better rock. By the way, it looks like you changed the chains that were up there and put in hangers/screw link/chains. Which is really nice, except for one of the bolts is a bit of a spinner. In my opinion I agree that the belay should be placed higher in better rock.
By Boissal From: Small Lake, UT Oct 15, 2007 rating: 5.85b16VI-HVS 4c
Crux was 15' off the ground for me, slippery feet to go over the slight bulge. Punch in a red alien, mash your feet in the crack and go for it. The rest of the 1st pitch is awesome. Cool moves starting from the ground instead of the big boulder
By George Vigeon From: Bend, OR May 27, 2008 rating: 5.85b16VI-HVS 4c
It gets greasy when the temps hit around 85 and up. Getting your feet to the first chickenhead is the crux. .4, .5, .75, and a 2 camalot and maybe a set of smaller nuts. Lots o fun but gets crowded. There is a nut stuck right below the first bush.
i would highly recommend doing both pitches. if you climb the crack that goes right it gets thin at the top so bring some nut but then you can traverse over after the crack ends and there are plenty of places to set up a cam anchor. then down climb to the callitwhatyouplease anchors.
We did the left variation of the second pitch. It was a really fun cruiser route. Towards the end of the pitch the crack ends and you have a bit of a runout, it's pretty easy. There is a set of chains, but they are somewhat hidden; traverse further to the right than you might think and you will find them.
After the 2nd pitch one may continue upward toward a interesting tunnel feature, followed by 2 seams where the leader will step to the left, and enter another tunnel. Exit this tunnel almost immediately, and climb horizontally ending at the anchors atop the last pitch of 'the Hook'. 1 60m rope will suffice for decent (4 raps) down the face of the buttress ending at the base of Bushwhack.
By DoNstamos From: SLC/Detroit/Dragons May 10, 2012
Lost. Red metolius power cam. 05/07/12 during the super moon my piece walked in deep. I blew it. Anyway. If anyone recovered it and wants some beer I'll gladly pay you back in brew.
I really enjoyed this climb, but I think its the second pitch that makes the route. Maybe someone can explain when you are supposed to cut right from the right second pitch. I climbed this crack until it thinned to nothing and then took the run out chicken heads straight to the anchor, never traversed. Rapped twice to the ground. It was the run out face climbing combined with the first pitch that make this climb.
By boulderkeith From: Boulder, CO Sep 5, 2012 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-HVS 4c
While the first pitch (less than 100') is pretty good, to me this route lacks the length to be classic. The 2nd pitch is pretty marginal. The TR crowd has polished the bottom of the crack. Slippery isn't usual the desired characteristic of a really aesthetic climb. Sure, it is worth doing if you are there. But classic? Eh.
By boulderkeith From: Boulder, CO Sep 5, 2012 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-HVS 4c
See Guideline #1.
My comment was intended for the benefit of a visiting climber with limited time choosing a few routes to do. If you only have time for one route at Gates Buttress, I'd recommend Beckeys Wall over Bushwhack Crack.
By Jake Billitteri From: Salt Lake City, Utah May 27, 2014 rating: 5.85b16VI-HVS 4c
I first attempted this route in early March as the snow in the area was melting and found the climb to be wet and icy. However, I returned to Bushwhack for the redpoint last weekend. This was my second ever trad lead and I felt really comfortable. The crux is definitely the first 20 or so feet off the deck, but I found the climbing to be relatively tame (bomber hand jams) throughout.