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Schoolroom Area
Routes Sorted
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Bungle, The T 
Bushwhack Crack T 
Callitwhatyouplease T 
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 
Hatchet Crack T 
Heaven's Gate T 
Hook Direct, The T,TR 
Hook Variation, The S 
Hook, The T 
Knobs to Gumbyland S 
Lizzie Borden T 
Mantel Variation S 
Mind Blow T 
Movie Variation T 
Playing Hooky Var. T 
Recess Variation T 
Rumba, The T 
Schoolroom T 
Schoolroom Chimney T 
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 
Schoolroom Roof T 
Schoolroom West T 
Scourge, The T,TR 
Stone the Crows S 
Talus Food S,TR 

Bushwhack Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bill Conrod, Paul Anderson, 1965
Page Views: 12,794
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Mar 23, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (258)
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Dad jammin' up the last part of the route, this wa...
The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Bushwhack Crack is a very fine, beautiful jam crack on the right side of the Schoolroom wall. It is the obvious straight in splitter with several trees in it about 100' up. The first pitch is a 3-star pitch, too bad it is not longer!

P1) 5.8 Climb the thin hands crack, passing the crux right off the deck. Continue up, with the crack turning to fists near the belay. The first pitch ends at a set of chain anchors and a small foot ledge. Many people rap at this point (one rope), but the second pitch is also pretty good.

P2) 5.7 Continue up the crack through the trees, angling right until a crack starts going straight up. Climb this (low angle) to a thin traverse at a chicken head. Continue easily to the right with a tree with anchors.

Descent) Downclimb 10 - 15 feet to a set of chain anchors on the face. Rap 100' down to the deck.


Protection 

Standard Rack - mostly pro for thin hands. Some pieces up to a #3 camalot size are useful too.



Photos of Bushwhack Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Hand Jammy Jam
Hand Jammy Jam
Heading up the second pitch of Bushwhack Crack. (Or he could be off-route...I remember him telling me he was just exploring.)
Heading up the second pitch of Bushwhack Crack. (O...
Trinity Romney, photo'd by her dad while practicing her jams, TR'd on pitch 1 of Bushwhack Crack
Trinity Romney, photo'd by her dad while practicin...
Base of anchor block
BETA PHOTO: Base of anchor block
Schoolroom from the parking lot
BETA PHOTO: Schoolroom from the parking lot
Working through the jams.
Working through the jams.
Fresh rockfall scar at base.
BETA PHOTO: Fresh rockfall scar at base.
Lee demonstrates how to place the first piece on Bushwack crack. Seriously, this picture gives a nice view of the lower part of the crack so that you can get a feel for the gear you will need. That is a red metolius.
Lee demonstrates how to place the first piece on B...
Bobby and I took my brother out to climb for his birthday on one of the most beautiful November days ever. Bushwhack was just the first of 7 pitches.
Bobby and I took my brother out to climb for his b...
Wacking around the crack's famous bush.
Wacking around the crack's famous bush.
Bushwack is good.
Bushwack is good.
On the left variation of the second pitch. Obviously too easy since I have time to kid around.
On the left variation of the second pitch. Obvious...
Block at the base was hit by rockfall from the belay
BETA PHOTO: Block at the base was hit by rockfall from the bel...
Lee re-learning his jams after a long ski-induced off-season.
Lee re-learning his jams after a long ski-induced ...
Base of the anchor block, horn to right (with hand!) still solid.
Base of the anchor block, horn to right (with hand...
Bobby on Bushwhack
Bobby on Bushwhack
Hollow sketchy flakes to the bottom left of anchor block.
BETA PHOTO: Hollow sketchy flakes to the bottom left of anchor...
Looking east at some guys on the top of the first pitch of Bushwhack Crack.
Looking east at some guys on the top of the first ...
Just below the bush.
Just below the bush.
Bushwhack Crack. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Bushwhack Crack.
Photo by Blitzo.
bushwack crack 5.8 **
bushwack crack 5.8 **
Comments on Bushwhack Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 27, 2014
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 28, 2004

I am not as enthusiastic about this route, however it is a good moderate option in the canyon. The first 20 feet of the first pitch were a bit slippery and insecure for my liking. It felt harder than 5.8, but climb it and gain confidence!

By Eric Jacobsen
Mar 29, 2004

I haven't climbed this but have also heard that it's hard and greasy. And that everyone loves it. Can't wait to try it out this summer!

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 29, 2004
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I thought this was an awfully easy 5.8 There is really only one 5.8 move to get established and one more in a bulge up higher, but otherwise it is just good easy 5.7 Not as hard as Movie Variation and only slightly harder than Schoolroom Direct. Not continuous enough to get 3 stars from me, but good fun.

By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Apr 5, 2004

Did this one last spring break. Great climb for taking beginners on. It eats up pro.

By Matt Barrigar
Sep 13, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is an awesome climb. Classic LCC jam crack - a good intro to LCC. It isn't slippery or insecure if the rock isn't too hot. Go on a cool day, or in the morning.

By Nathan Fisher
Apr 14, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did both pitches the other day, and whereas the second pitch isn't as hard or as consistent, or even the same style, it makes the climb a better route. There are 2 lines after the chains. The first and, IMHO, the better line is the left line. Step left out of the trees and continue up as the crack starts angling right. At the end of the crack, scamper up the runout but easy slab to a rap station (slings on a flake). Rap down to Callitwhatyouplease. The other line, can be climbed as Peter said, or continue up the runout but easy face. Either way a better Bushwhack, then just the 1st pitch.

By Harvey Miller
Oct 3, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I climbed this for the first time two days ago. I agree with one of the previous posts: on the second pitch, the left crack is better than the right crack. The right crack is nothing special, and also thins out about 2/3rds of the way up to a shallow outward flaring crack that was difficult to pro and then to a runout. Not a good combination. Left crack is fun, easy climbing. It pinches out at the top and there is a short runout to the chains, so get a piece or two in as high as possible. I found that a tri-cam worked well.

By Blitzo
Sep 9, 2006

Excellent crack! The bush/tree sucks!

By Ben Folsom
May 6, 2007

Tony,

A good friend of mine put those anchors in quite a few years ago because the old belay (which was a bunch of webbing around one of the trees) was killing the tree and about to rip out. We were up there last year after climbing some routes on that cliff and were rapping off the bushwack belay. We both agreed that the anchors should have been placed about 10 feet or so higher on better rock.
By the way, it looks like you changed the chains that were up there and put in hangers/screw link/chains. Which is really nice, except for one of the bolts is a bit of a spinner.
In my opinion I agree that the belay should be placed higher in better rock.

By steve santora
Oct 9, 2007

Ouch my feet hurt...

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 15, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Crux was 15' off the ground for me, slippery feet to go over the slight bulge. Punch in a red alien, mash your feet in the crack and go for it. The rest of the 1st pitch is awesome. Cool moves starting from the ground instead of the big boulder

By George Vigeon
From: Bend, OR
May 27, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It gets greasy when the temps hit around 85 and up. Getting your feet to the first chickenhead is the crux. .4, .5, .75, and a 2 camalot and maybe a set of smaller nuts. Lots o fun but gets crowded. There is a nut stuck right below the first bush.

By devin027
May 26, 2009

i would highly recommend doing both pitches. if you climb the crack that goes right it gets thin at the top so bring some nut but then you can traverse over after the crack ends and there are plenty of places to set up a cam anchor. then down climb to the callitwhatyouplease anchors.

By Miller
Jul 21, 2009

that darn squirrel claimed two more victims today. Watch your packs, and he/she likes sport drinks too! Ate through the zipper.

By df1mk
Jun 7, 2010

We did the left variation of the second pitch. It was a really fun cruiser route. Towards the end of the pitch the crack ends and you have a bit of a runout, it's pretty easy. There is a set of chains, but they are somewhat hidden; traverse further to the right than you might think and you will find them.

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Feb 15, 2011

After the 2nd pitch one may continue upward toward a interesting tunnel feature, followed by 2 seams where the leader will step to the left, and enter another tunnel. Exit this tunnel almost immediately, and climb horizontally ending at the anchors atop the last pitch of 'the Hook'. 1 60m rope will suffice for decent (4 raps) down the face of the buttress ending at the base of Bushwhack.

By DoNstamos
From: Dumont, CO
May 10, 2012

Lost. Red metolius power cam. 05/07/12 during the super moon my piece walked in deep. I blew it. Anyway. If anyone recovered it and wants some beer I'll gladly pay you back in brew.

By Joseph Lascurain
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 17, 2012

I really enjoyed this climb, but I think its the second pitch that makes the route. Maybe someone can explain when you are supposed to cut right from the right second pitch. I climbed this crack until it thinned to nothing and then took the run out chicken heads straight to the anchor, never traversed. Rapped twice to the ground. It was the run out face climbing combined with the first pitch that make this climb.

By boulderkeith
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 5, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

While the first pitch (less than 100') is pretty good, to me this route lacks the length to be classic. The 2nd pitch is pretty marginal. The TR crowd has polished the bottom of the crack. Slippery isn't usual the desired characteristic of a really aesthetic climb. Sure, it is worth doing if you are there. But classic? Eh.

By boulderkeith
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 5, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

See Guideline #1.

My comment was intended for the benefit of a visiting climber with limited time choosing a few routes to do. If you only have time for one route at Gates Buttress, I'd recommend Beckeys Wall over Bushwhack Crack.

By Jake Billitteri
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 27, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I first attempted this route in early March as the snow in the area was melting and found the climb to be wet and icy. However, I returned to Bushwhack for the redpoint last weekend. This was my second ever trad lead and I felt really comfortable. The crux is definitely the first 20 or so feet off the deck, but I found the climbing to be relatively tame (bomber hand jams) throughout.