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Bushwacker 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kelly Moore?
Season: Summer-Fall
Page Views: 208
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Mar 15, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Bushwacker is seen somewhat in profile, beginning ...

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Description 

Step high from a large boulder onto sloping, water polished holds and move up to a more secure stance before any pro is available. A shallow, left facing dihedral constitutes the line to follow; steep crack and face moves are surmounted either by jamming or libacking. Fairly continuous hard climbing leads to the rim. This route may be a sandbag at only 5.9, but is graded according to the local standard. Walk to your car to conclude things.


Location 

This route is nearly under the bridge on the South side of the canyon. Walk down the standard "South Rim Descent" to a point nearly under the bridge. There is a prominent dihedral that constitutes the Bridge route; Bushwacker shares a start with the Bridge Route.


Protection 

Standard rack, including up to a #3 Camalot.



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By Rodger Raubach
Mar 15, 2011

I found this route very continuous and somewhat strenuous; I got pretty pumped by liebacking the dihedral. Only the initial moves make this a "PG" climb. Slipping on the water polished rock before getting to some pro would be "messy," due to the large boulders below. One of my few favorite Fremont Canyon routes.