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Follow the crack straight up the big roof. There are a lot of jugs throughout this section that make the roof very manageable. Watch out for cactus at the ledge half way up. Finish by working right after gaining the big ledge, ending on the face of the giant block at the top.
The crack that goes straight up the roof.
Standard TR set up. Long webbing helpful.
Bring small stuff if you try to lead it. I've not looked for placements so scope them out for yourself and go straight up after gaining the ledge rather than right.
May 4, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After the ledge if you continue straight up rather than to the left it's a little harder and gets slabby at the top, but good climb. The roof area is lots of fun with good positive holds.
By Pete Hunt
Feb 19, 2011
I agree, it is a lot of fun to finish this climb by working right once at the big ledge, finishing on the massive block at the top. I also think this is necessary to earn the 5.8 rating. Also, the juggy roof can feel like 5.6 with the effective use of a drop-knee and the move feels great.
By Mitch alons
From: Sioux Falls sd
Aug 1, 2014
Rp lead, protected well with .5 camalot and aliens. Went up the roof then right and straight up. Fun exciting lead!