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9. Chimney Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abyss, The T,TR 
Boy Howdy T,TR 
Bushmaster T,TR 
Horizontal Tango, The T,TR 
In and Out T,TR 
Jugs of Whine AKA Magic Carpet Ride TR 
Poika TR 
Roofs T,TR 
Seduction and Rejection TR 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 440
Submitted By: Pete Hunt on Jul 29, 2008

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Follow the crack straight up the big roof. There are a lot of jugs throughout this section that make the roof very manageable. Watch out for cactus at the ledge half way up. Finish by working right after gaining the big ledge, ending on the face of the giant block at the top.


Just north and around the corner from X, Y, Z, it's the thin crack that goes straight up the roof.


Standard TR set up. Long slings helpful.

Bring small stuff if you try to lead it from what I remember.

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By Riggs
May 4, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

After the ledge if you continue straight up rather than to the left it's a little harder and gets slabby at the top, but good climb. The roof area is lots of fun with good positive holds.
By Pete Hunt
Feb 19, 2011

I agree, it is a lot of fun to finish this climb by working right once at the big ledge, finishing on the block at the top. I also think this is necessary for it to be 5.8. The juggy roof is fun!
By Mitch alons
From: Sioux Falls sd
Aug 1, 2014

Rp lead, protected well with .5 camalot and aliens. Went up the roof then right and straight up. Fun exciting lead!