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Bush Shark Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Banana Split T 
Big - T T 
Blood In The Water S 
Bush Shark Spire T 
Cabron T 
Curfew T,S 
Feeding Frenzy T 
Garden Party T 
Ghost Rider T,S 
Great White T,S 
Hammerhead T,S 
Mudshark Arpeggio, The T 
Pantomime T 
Westron Wynde T 

Bush Shark Spire 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Wayne Taylor, Eric Keto, 78
Season: spring through fall
Page Views: 2,870
Submitted By: Chuck McQuade on Jan 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Robin nearing the end of Bush Shark's p1! The p2@...

Description 

Like the Candle in Chimney Canyon, this route leads to one of the few spire summits in the Sandias. An interesting route with a good hand crack on P1, the second pitch contains the routes crux which occurs right off the belay. The climb ends at a bolted anchor just short of the spires summit. A short section of class 3 scrambling can be done to top out on the summit.

P1: (90’) Starts at the spire’s west face, underneath a large roof. Follow a good hand crack broken up with intermittent ledges. The pitch ends at a bolted belay on a small but good ledge.

P2: (70’) Head straight up negotiating a small bulge (crux). Follow a broken dihedral to the bolted belay.

Descent: Rap the route [straightforward with 2 ropes or a 70m rope; a single 60m rope will also work but is not ideal]

Protection 

Standard rack: double Camalots 0.5-2", some slings.


Photos of Bush Shark Spire Slideshow Add Photo
P1: follows the hand crack in center of photo.
BETA PHOTO: P1: follows the hand crack in center of photo.
approximate route. Yucca Flower Tower can be seen at pics right side.
BETA PHOTO: approximate route. Yucca Flower Tower can be seen ...
Chuck negotiating the routes crux of P2.
Chuck negotiating the routes crux of P2.
Ryan leading up the first pitch of Bush Shark. Great climb.
Ryan leading up the first pitch of Bush Shark. Gre...

Comments on Bush Shark Spire Add Comment
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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 22, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you don't want to rappel off, and don't need to return to the base, you can top out by continuing up Garden Party (1 long pitch+ 1 short pitch, "5.8+"), which (despite the name) actually has pretty good climbing too
By Ryan Smyth
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 5, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

First time leading a 5.9 trad. What a blast. Once you reach the crack, it is on. only got to do the first pitch because thunder and rain scared us off. Lots of jamming and some good liebacking. I wouldn't recommend trying to rappel from the first belay station. unless you have a 70m rope or are willing to do some downclimbing hah. heh.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 6, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Ryan, you are correct, the rappel needs a 70m rope to reach the ground. Don't worry, the first pitch is the better of the two and a half, you should go back though to tag the summit. Next time if your out and getting threated with weather you could TR feeding frenzy and if the S**T hit the fan just lower and pull the rope and get out.