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|Comments on Bush Shark Area||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Morrison, CO
Jul 13, 2007
Thanks for adding this link. There's at least one more route not described on RC.com. I don;t know the name, buts its a 5.13a or b that starts at ground level left of "Hammerhead" and surmounts the big roof on the SW prow of bush shark spire. The first half of the pitch ascends a gear-protected, dirty open book at around 5.10. The second half heads left over the big roof with gymnastic moves. FA Lee Brinkerhoff, summer 2005. One could probably discern the route name by viewing Lee's 8a.nu scorecard.
My understanding is that most of the routes were put in by Lee and Lance Hadfield, all drilled by hand. Both of these lads work at Stoneage and happy to give out beta. The three pitch 10+ (Big T?) is a really good route (the only one I've done). It would be really helpful if someone could figure out and post the beta for rapping in to these routes, which makes the approach bushwhack-free. I've done before but I was tagging alon gand can't remember how we did it. I know we rapped into "the notch" at one point.
From: ABQ, NM
Sep 19, 2008
The Jaramillo routes are Cabron 5.10 A2+ and Pantomime 5.10+. They are both right of Westeron Wynde and share climbing in the middle. Topos are available at Stone Age Climbing Gym in the big blue binder with local area updates and info.
The rappels down the Big T can be done with a single 70m rope, a 60m leaves you a little short on the second rappel.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 9, 2013
1) Walk down the main Echo Canyon gully, hugging the left side, passing Techweenie Buttress. Not too bad. Fastest way to walk to the base.
2) Walk down the gully just left (north) of Big T. Not too bad, but more bushwhacking than (#1). Fastest way to walk to the base from the top.
3) Rappel in by Big T (4 raps off 2-bolt anchors, with 70m rope). Need to leave long runner/cordelette on only the highest rappel point; all others are fully equipped. Good if you don't want to walk to the base.
4) Rappel in Ghost Rider (4 raps off 2-bolt anchors, with 70m rope- 60m should work I think but can't say for sure). Need to leave some runners on top 2 or 3 anchors and climb out Ghost Rider to retrieve them. The last anchor is almost in the "old Bush Shark descent gully", rather than Ghost Rider proper, and you don't need to leave anything there. Good if you're planning to climb Ghost Rider.
All are ok, depending what you're up to.