Busch Gardens 5.10
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Thor Kieser |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Thor Kieser on Sep 2, 2004 |
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Peter Dillon starting up Busch Gardens. Moderate ...
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Description Welcome to the grand opening of Busch Gardens in Clear Creek Canyon Colorado. The one in Tampa Bay may be closing down but the management decided to move it to Colorado. You will find the new Busch Gardens to be a modern park for ultimate family fun. There are plenty of good rides and interesting adventures to be had. We even have a kiddie section at the entrance to the park. The Park has a variety of natural settings that have been left untouched by the hand of man. Start 10 feet to the right of Bush Administration. Climb 5.9 past five bolts to a small roof. Pull the roof and clip six bolts on the headwall to a two bolt anchor. If you have a 60m rope, belay on the ledge 10 feet above the ground. Addendum: Be careful, it is a rope stretcher back to the ledge with a 60m rope.
Protection 11 QDs.
Peter Dillon at the crux roof. The handholds aren...
| Peter Dillon on the steep upper headwall of Busch ...
| BETA PHOTO: Some of the newer routes on Little Eiger. Bush Ad...
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| Comments on Busch Gardens |
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By Scott Bilyeu Sep 10, 2004
| Very nice route! Fun roof move and another fun bulge after that. Thanks Thor for putting in the time, effort and expense. |
By Anonymous Coward May 19, 2005
| A really fun route! Kudos to those that had the vision, time, and money to add another great route to Eiger.-Dave of the Kirtlands |
By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Jul 5, 2005 rating: 5.10c
| Another fine new route on LIttle Eiger. The route starts 10 feet right of the top of the approach trail. Moderate climbing at the start, then a burly, technical roof that was the crux for me. Above the roof, sustained climbing up a steep headwall leads to the anchor. There's a bit of a runout between the last bolt and the anchor with some devious climbing; take care on this section. |
By James R. Arnold Jul 18, 2005
| Did this route yesterday and thought it is really good quality. Thought is was a little better and a little harder than Bush Administration. Thanks Thor for the effort of putting in the route! |
By Jerome Stiller From: Golden CO Jul 28, 2005 rating: 5.10b
| Did this route this morning (called in sick to work hehehe...) Great new addition to Little Eiger. Fun, clean, and long (just how I like my women...). Easy until you get to the roof (which is not that hard) and then quite sustained for the duration. Very well bolted. Thanks Thor! |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jul 12, 2006 rating: 5.10a
| The best of the routes in this immediate area. Crux is thoughful moves with thin feet. |
By kevin fox From: parker Aug 18, 2007
| Great route. The top is where I find the difficulty...from the last bolt and about 3 feet from the anchors I whipped off and ended up back at the 3rd to last bolt. Great ride! |
By raise Jun 19, 2008 rating: 5.10a/b
| One of the most enjoyable .10s I've done in Clear Ck. Fun overhang with good holds. Top is a bit difficult. The runout from the last bolt to the anchors can def lead to a lengthy fall. I found it several degrees easier than the Bush Admin to the left. |
By Ralph Kolva From: Evergreen, CO Jul 3, 2009 rating: 5.10c PG13
| Fun route, found it to be a little nicer than Bush Admin and a smidgen harder. |
By Top Rope Hero From: Estes Park Aug 26, 2009 rating: 5.10b/c
| A good 10c if you take the roof head on. If you crank right, it's probably only 10b or maybe even 10a. |
By Crag Dweller From: Denver, CO Aug 30, 2009 rating: 5.10b
| High on my list of favorite Front Range climbs. Thanks to Thor! A fun sequence of jugs to the roof. And, then the business begins. Beginning with the pull past the roof, I found each move to be progressively harder than the one before it with little opportunity to rest and a challenging sequence of moves waiting for the run out from the last bolt to the anchors. And, the other posters are right. That last run out holds the potential for a fun, long ride. I enjoyed a few 15-20 footers. |
By Ben Cassedy From: Denver, CO Apr 29, 2011 rating: 5.10c
| Much more enjoyable and straightforward than the 10b to the left. Didn't really feel that the top was runout at all. |
By Dan White From: Denver, CO Jun 25, 2012
| Everything from the roof up is pumpy, and I took a couple of 15-20 footers trying to get to the anchors from the last bolt, but it is a clean fall. There are solid feet up left of the last bolt, then you can cut back right toward the anchors. I hit some mossy hand jugs in that area which makes me think I was bailing off route a little. It's an exciting route, and I want to give it another try. |
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