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Burt Gives Blow Jobs 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type: Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,789
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Apr 24, 2007
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Great route. Photo by Seth Hamel.

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Description 

Sit start the arete with hands on each face and both feet on the left. Move up with the right hand to a gaston and then up again to a sloper. Work the feet up and mantel over the top (crux.) There's a small, bad hold way up for the right hand to help with the mantel.


Location 

In the "warm up" area. It's the obvious arete with the two foot shelf boulder at the base.


Protection 

Pads and spotters, kind of an akward landing to watch out for with the shalf boulder.



Photos of Burt Gives Blow Jobs Slideshow Add Photo
The Problem.
BETA PHOTO: The Problem.
Art sticks the first move.
Art sticks the first move.
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 30, 2007
rating: V6 7A

Make sure you warm up your fingers for the bottom section, make sure you warm up your head-game before you top-out. It isn't a highball but it scares me and feels desperate anyway.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 8, 2010

I got on this thing for the first time this past weekend and I cannot wait to get back on it! So fun cant wait to send (hopefully).

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 8, 2010

Great route, my send is still years away! I've found the working the arete is the way that works best for me, I used to try to work up the face and that never really panned out for me.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 8, 2010

yeah my send is probably years away too but I am liking the face option the best. I was able to get my hand over the lip on one attempt from the sit start but I need to work the top out, anyone got secret beta to share for the top out?

By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Mar 9, 2010

Once you have both hands on the lip, get your right foot up and reach for a shallow dish a ways back with your right hand. Press it out. It's hard but not too cryptic once you find the holds you need.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 9, 2010

Thanks Julian, hoping to get back on it soon I will have to try that beta.

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 4, 2012
rating: V6 7A

Footage of this problem at :09