Follow crack to roof. Move right and follow crack through roof to ledge.
Scramble to top.
On east wall of the pit at right side of cliff.
From: Alliance, OH
Nov 14, 2007
Gear: can be done with three pieces. 1- sling around the triangle where two cracks meet half way up main wall. 2- #3 camalot at horizontal crack just to the left of the roof crack. 3- #1 camalot in the crack just above the roof.
Variation: Bursitis Direct [5.8] climb directly under and then up and through the roof. Difficult to protect the bottom half from decking on the main ledge 10 feet off of the ground, but it can still be lead.
Jun 21, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
I cant count how many times I've done this route- leading, top roping, soloing, rope soling, aiding, etc. It is really a great little climb with fun moves. Some of my earliest climbing memories involve watching my Dad smear desparately over the lip to gain the ledge and a solid handshake to follow.
|By Ed Budde|
Nov 25, 2009
The very top hold on the route broke off sometime around 1990 and now the new hold that was created makes the route somewhat easier.