|Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>|
Easy 5.11 climbing on jugs through the cave leads to a tough move to pull the roof, then a couple more moves to the anchor. A bat hang and no-hands-rest knee-bar are both possible.
In the cave just uphill from Playing with Fire
7 titanium glue-in bolts; retrobolted in 2006
Brian Cornwell holding on...
Yao from Spain offers beta to Manuel about Burnt ...
Brian C. preparing to pull the lip
|By Top Rope Hero|
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jul 6, 2011
Absolutely one of the finest overhanging, ape-armed crank fests on this planet. Not to be missed if'n you're hitting the Tonsai trade routes. Can be quite crowded; best times are pre-dawn and late-late afternoon. Bring a photographer and bring some balls.
[SPOILER ALERT!] Doesn't hurt to have monkey arms and bat radar for the blind throw to a wonderfully deep, three-finger pocket to exit the cave.
Can be damned impossible hard to fully clean on lower. Potential for a bad wall-splat for seconds unless they're strong on 5.11. Might clean the easiest if'n you throw in a leaver draw on the third bolt and do a quick, micro down-lead for the first two draws.
Have fun flying!
|By Ryan Williams|
From: London (sort of)
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Used to be a biner on one of the bolts to help clean... gumbies always think they are getting a bail biner and take them for booty. Then they end up having an epic trying to clean the route.
Awesome climbing though!