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> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Mamquam FSR
> Fern Hill
Burning the Coil
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Fern Hill
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3 or 4 Times a Night S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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All Night Long S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ants Go Marching S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Argo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Blood and Pepper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Burning the Coil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Burp the Worm S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Carrate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Charlie Don't Surf S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Codgery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Covidity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crapology S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dividing Line, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dungeon Master, The S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Good Times S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Good Times In A Snowglobe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Happy Feet S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Honeymoon's Over, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hot Chode S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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It's Not About You S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Kenny vs Spenny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lady Switcher, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Little Tree S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mudraker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Outdoor Millennial Hipsters S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Quaker Oats S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Serenity Now! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Snowglobe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Solitary Confinement S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Story of My Life S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Twick or tweet S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Typical Squamish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vikings' Are Coming, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Where are they now? S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Who's Next? S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Yellow Fever S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | P.Winter |
| Page Views: | 991 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Winter on Apr 27, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: FSR TEMPORARY CLOSURE
Details
Information from: www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/…
Stawamus/ Indian River FSR 4823
- September 15 - November 15, 2022 - Road closed due to major bridge replacement at 1km. Closure will also restrict access to Shannon branch road
- 4WD access only; seasonally deactivated
- Shannon branch 4823.2 (to Stawamus Chief) of Stawamus/ Indian
- 4WD access only
- Active industrial operations, use caution. Gate closure at 4.2km in effect; no road access beyond this point. Parking for a limited number of vehicles will be available at the 4.2km location.
- Inquiries regarding the Sea to Sky Gondola should be directed to the licensee Kirby Brown at (604) 892-2550
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This route is sustained with bouldery cruxes and a few good rests.
Easy climbing leads to the first bolt at about 30 feet. There are two distinct points on the route at which you may choose to climb either left or right of the bolt line, with the different paths potentially suiting different strengths. There are two different sets of anchors at the top: one on the left, one on the right. The grade is the same regardless which anchors you clip.
This route tends to seep after a rain, especially at the bulge below the fifth bolt.
Easy climbing leads to the first bolt at about 30 feet. There are two distinct points on the route at which you may choose to climb either left or right of the bolt line, with the different paths potentially suiting different strengths. There are two different sets of anchors at the top: one on the left, one on the right. The grade is the same regardless which anchors you clip.
This route tends to seep after a rain, especially at the bulge below the fifth bolt.
Photos
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