|Type: ||Boulder, 12'|
|Consensus: || Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]|
|Page Views: ||304|
|Submitted By: ||Erica Block on Feb 26, 2011|
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Collin C. doing the opening move to the 2 finger p...
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Stand start left hand on a small slopey divot and right hand on a sharp incut crimp both at about six feet up. Make a right hand move to a 2 finger pocket with an optional thumb catch (the thumb catch may or may not help you depending on if you're good at pinching and/or sidepulls, some people prefer to just crank straight down on the 2 finger). Fall in left hand to a thin flat crimp sidepull at about the same height and then power to the small sloper ledge at the lip. Most people use a toe or heel in the good hueco out right for the 3 moves leading up to the lip, although this hueco is off for your hands making it a bit contrived although not noticeably so. From the sloper ledge at the lip, the top out continues to be a bit challenging and committing.
This problem is located in the center of the Northwest face of the Unbeatable bolder. To get to the Unbeatable boulder travel further South down the road from the main Box parking lot, through two washes, up over the hill, park just before the cattle guard. Looking East from your parking spot, you'll see an obvious boulder in the valley South of Major Wall and Alcohol Wall. Downclimb the juggy West face (V0-).
A few pads and an attentive spotter for the topout. While topping out watch the tree behind you, people have ended up in there!
Sockhands having executed the crux on Burning Spea...
Sockhands on the pocket and crimp sidepull and abo...