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Burning Shoes (a.k.a. Shattered Illusions of Love)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A2
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Routes in Tower 143
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Burning Shoes (a.k.a. Shattered Illusions of Love) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 |
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| Type: | Aid, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | James Garrett, Pete "Big Billy" Keane, and Brad England, October '98 |
| Page Views: | 1,600 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Brandewie on May 12, 2008 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Pitch 1 - Begin with a shoulder stand from your partner or by using a somewhat sketchy fixed pin with a broken eye hole. Continue past another fixed pin to a beautiful clean crack that arcs around forming the "C-Dunt Traverse". At the end of the arc, turn a couple roof/corners on big gear. The second of these roofs is wide, awkward and very strenuous, even if you're aiding... which you will be. Continue to the notch and a two-bolt anchor. (5.9, A1, C1+)
Pitch 2 - Begin up a crack a few feet to the left of the anchor and gain a small shelf. From here the original party nailed up a thin and soft crack to a flaring, horizontal ledge/crack and then placed a bolt on the bulging wall above. (After I placed five crappy pieces in the shelf at my feet and spent 15 minutes looking at my options for leaving the shelf, I proudly called for the 10 foot stick clip.) Pass a blown out bat hook hole and from the highest bolt, tension traverse right to the anchor. (C1+ with a stick clip, originally rated A2 though it seemed harder)
Pitch 3 - Climb the soft crack above the anchor on pins and cams passing some fixed pieces along the way. Save some small pins and a little mojo for the final moves onto the summit. (A2)
Pitch 2 - Begin up a crack a few feet to the left of the anchor and gain a small shelf. From here the original party nailed up a thin and soft crack to a flaring, horizontal ledge/crack and then placed a bolt on the bulging wall above. (After I placed five crappy pieces in the shelf at my feet and spent 15 minutes looking at my options for leaving the shelf, I proudly called for the 10 foot stick clip.) Pass a blown out bat hook hole and from the highest bolt, tension traverse right to the anchor. (C1+ with a stick clip, originally rated A2 though it seemed harder)
Pitch 3 - Climb the soft crack above the anchor on pins and cams passing some fixed pieces along the way. Save some small pins and a little mojo for the final moves onto the summit. (A2)
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